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30. Okt.5 Min. Lesezeit

ONE VISION

Wine-Hopping in Portugal

QUINTA DA TORRE - Anselmo Mendes


When making a wine recommendation I know I should keep it short, but sometimes it is simply impossible to just stick to tasting notes. Be warned 😊


For one dedicated Winemaker in the North of Portugal, research and commitment to the Wine Industry were fired by an inquisitive mind and a life-long passion. A zeal, born of the influence of his father and grandfather, themselves winemakers in a region once better known for its red wine. Anselmo Mendes at Quinta da Torre still tends 6 hectares of red vines today, though his expertise lies in the cultivation and vinification of white varieties, notably Alvarinho.



Back in the 15th century, the North of Portugal was a red wine producing nation. These wines, including some from the cellars of Quinta da Torre, enjoyed great popularity throughout Northern Europe and were dispatched from the nearby port of Viana do Castelo to, among other destinations, the shores of England.



Mr. Alvarinho, as Anselmo Mendes is known in the World of Portuguese Wine, initially studied Astronomy. Nonetheless, family tradition and an inveterate dream soon guided him down quite a different path. He gained his first hands-on wine-making experience experimenting with grapes from his fathers` vineyards and also, having then studied Oenology, during a visit to Burgundy in France.  



Little did I know what a good choice I had instinctively made on booking a tasting at Quinta da Torre and Sandra Além, responsible for the Enoturismo activities at the winery, seemed determined to present the complete Anselmo Mendes range during our short two-hour stay.


Anselmo Mendes is one of the most highly acclaimed and innovative winemakers in the Vinho Verde wine region of Portugal.  A humble man, one in touch with nature, aware of the significance of terroir and of course, a damn good winemaker.



Following a comeback in the 1930`s, Alvarinho is the most important variety of the region, also by virtue of Mr. Alvarinho and his work. In 1998 Anselmo produced his first wine: Muros de Melgaço, closely followed by Muros Antigos in 2001. He was the first winemaker in Vinho Verde to ferment and age white wine in lightly toasted French oak barrels, and the combination of skin-contact and fermentation in oak distinguish the Anselmo Mendes style and wine profile we taste today.

30 years on, Anselmo Mendes now harvests a variety of grapes grown on a total of 130 hectares throughout Portugal. 60 hectares grow in the Vinho Verde sub-regions: Monção and Melgaço and the Lima Valley belonging to the historical 14th century Quinta da Torre. The centuries old property he acquired and renovated in 2016, although the vineyard restructuring and studies of these had already begun back in 2008.



The climate in Vinho Verde is a diverse one, with the Atlantic coast to the west, the Trás-os-Montes mountain range to the east, hence altitude increasing the further inland you go. The main bedrock is steely-grey granite, schist and fertile alluvial riverbed deposits particularly along the Lima River Valley – a diversity mirrored in the unique wines he creates. Years of painstaking and patient research have led to an exceptional portfolio of expressive wine, recognising and depictive of the importance and impact of Terroir.



At Anselmo Mendes, sustainable and environment-friendly agricultural practice plays an important role in philosophy. All vineyard areas are hence organically certified. Water rationing where possible, soil-improvement and the recovery and re-planting of woodland areas create a natural habitat in which wildlife and insects thrive. In giving as much back to the ecosystem as they receive, their efforts are paying off.



Anselmo Mendes fascinating and ongoing project evaluates soil conditions, the micro-climate, cultivation and vinification methods and their effect on both grape varieties and vintage. This gave birth in 2009 to the iconic wine-line: Parcela Única, which I highly recommend – please see below.



Anselmo Mendes, a man of commitment, passion and integrity and one who has deservedly left his footprint on a worldwide scale.


Dear Sandra, many thanks for the fascinating and informative tour of the Estate.


Thankyou too, for the extensive wine-presentation. The modern tasting and sales room opened its doors just last summer and is the best venue for finding out more.

 

A small tip from me – Quinta da Torre also has accommodation, although it`s not advertised, so keep this bit of information to yourselves!  


For more information about Quinta da Torre and Anselmo Mendes please contact:



Sandra Além

Tower Farm

2G95+7H Moreira


Tel.: +351 258 022 140


And last but not least, my wine recommendations!



DOC Vinho Verde, Monção and Melgaço

100 % Alvarinho

13 % vol.

Ca. €35,00

 

Awarded 94 points from The Wine Enthuiast, Parcela Única 2021 is an expressive wine with plenty of aging capacity. One of the best Alvarinho wines available on the market today, made from grapes of superb quality, born of one single-vineyard-site in a particularly challenging vintage with relatively low yields.

 

Carefully selected grapes, harvested by hand, destemmed, lengthy temperature-controlled stabilisation, fermentation in new 400-litre French oak barrels, followed by eight months on the lees under periodic bĂątonnage. No malolactic conversion, but a smooth, creamy ripe banana feel on the palate, delicate minerality, fresh acidity and nutty vanilla aromas following prolonged contact to and maturation in oak. A long, elegant finish confirms the complexity.


DOC Vinho Verde

Monção and Melgaço, Lima Valley, Baião

Alvarinho, Loureiro and Avesso

12,5 % vol.

Ca. €5,00

 

Carefully selected Alvarinho, Loureiro and Avesso grapes from three different sub-regions of the Vinho Verde producing a wine of compexity and depth of character.

 

Harvested by hand, whole destemmed grape pressing, lengthy temperature-controlled fermentation followed by a minimum 3-month maturation period with regular bĂątonnage on fine lees in stainless-steel tanks. A beautifully aromatic blend, pale gold in the glass. 2023 was a good year for exotic fruit notes as seen here with pineapple, but also sharp citrus, tangerine and green apple. A touch of toasted almond on the palate and for me, an entry wine with body and persistence.

DOC Vinho Verde, Lima Valley

100 % Loureiro

12 % vol.

Ca. €26,00

 

Concentrated and expressive quality Loureiro grapes harvested by hand on the banks of the Lima River, destemmed and gently pressed followed by long temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. A further 6 months on the lees with regular bĂątonnage and a minimum of one year maturation in the bottle.

Delicate floral aromas, also a hint of peppermint and herbs, fresh citrus acidity with a very long finish. Similar to an aged German Riesling, a slight petrol note, yet not dominant.


Enjoy now or lay to rest for a few years, it will only get better!



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