A leisurely day at Monverde Wine Experience Hotel.
Arousing with the rising sun heralding the heat of the coming day within the charming stone walls of my exquisite and most comfortable bedroom, the sounds of nature filling the country air outside was like awakening from one of those dreams which you don't actually want to wake up from.
Although SurfWineTours specialises in just that, I decided to make the most of the extravagant hotel and it's inviting Spa facilities today seeing as I wouldn't be there forever (it was to be 37 degrees in the shade and according to the News, the world is about to end so there's no time like the present) and apart from that, my feet were still killing me from the day before.
Breakfast was a feast, and I mean A FEAST, but that's what a high-quality establishment should deliver. Particularly impressive were the "invisible" staff. They must have been there as the buffet was never empty, nor my glass for that matter, so a big compliment to you all.
Monverde serves fresh fayre with a choice selection for every taste. From muesli to fresh fruit, natural yoghurt to healthy seeds, eggs, bacon and grilled tomatoes, freshly baked bread and rolls. Of the Wines I tried there, their chilled sparkling served on arrival as a welcoming drink and with breakfast deserves a special mention. O tal da Lixa extra Seco, a blend of Arinto and Avesso with just enough "kick" to get that circulation going.
With bodily requirements satisfied it was time for a tour of the vineyards before the heat set in, not that Brits have a problem with hot dry weather, we`re used to it.
In comparison to vineyard growth at that time of year in Germany, here the vines and their healthy-looking fruit were far more advanced. The varieties planted on the schist and granite soils are marked professionally by descriptive signs enabling me to differentiate from one sort to the next. Some of the vineyards were Pergola trained and planted together with already very ripe looking Kiwi, but I'm not too sure if these weren't the neighbours' property.
Not wishing to miss out on a poolside lounger and with time getting on, I headed back to pick-up my swimming kit, the sun now high in the beautiful clear blue sky telling me it was time for a cool down.
Although I've lived in Germany for many years, not all typical German whims have yet rubbed off - thank goodness. On arrival at the pool though, I did start to think it might have been advantageous to have inherited the Art of "Early Morning Towel and Lounger Recovery" for which my fellow Germans are particularly well-known and practice worldwide to perfection.
Resembling an icy sheet of glass, the serenity of the cool waters was more than inviting. A row of just as inviting looking deckchairs lined the edge of the pool but on arrival, each was already "Towel Recovered" both with and without an occupier.
This barrier of Defense was a little like Border Control at the Port of Dover. The only difference here being that no-one gets to get either in or out of the water. Obviously sensing my plight, one of the up until now invisible staff members kindly informed me in a low voice that they did also have an inside pool, which although with slightly colder water, had no takers whatsoever.
Hell, who was I to be fussy, I was hot!
The inside retreat came with its own entry rules. To profit from the cooler indoor waters which having swum in the English Channel was no cause for alarm, I should please wear a green swimming cap available at the desk, extremely tight fitting and no, I won't make the obvious comparison.
Of course, I complied, at the same time not really understanding the difference between the freshly washed hair on my head and the hairy legs of the German guys outside.
Vanity aside, I thoroughly enjoyed my very peaceful refreshing inside swim and despite the heat, even went in the Sauna, admittedly removing my protective headgear in advance!
Following dinner in Amarante, it was time to head for that rather well stocked bar. It would be rude not to, as we say back home…
Normally just over an hour drive from Monverde there's a corner of Portugal whose beauty you have to have seen to believe yet well-known to Wine addicts the world over: The Douro Valley. The sights from the viewing points along the way I wouldn't have been able to see on a regular tour and passing through the District of Vila Real with its' breathtaking mountainous scenery, traditional stone cottages not to mention row upon row of vines, we entered the unforgettable Valley of the river Douro.
My guide's chosen route took us via Pinhão where the Douro and Pinhão Rivers merge, across the Gustave Eiffel bridge through the heart of Northern Portugal's century old Port Wine producing region to my next destination. The Vine House Hotel belongs to Quinta de S. Luiz, Portugal's oldest Port Wine producing Company in the Parish of Tabuaço.
A steep and rather hidden dirt-track leads off the main road through the vineyards and fields of olives up to C.N Kopke. Having checked into the hotel shortly after lunchtime and arranged the timing for my exclusive tour of the Quinta for the next morning, it was back into the air-conditioning of the car.
Not though, before insisting on just a few moments on my balcony to take in the view, one I can only describe as nothing less than breathtaking. I was mesmerised.
Some 110.000 acres of vineyards in the Douro Valley fascinate and depict centuries of man's hard labour with miles and miles of hand built monumental vineyard terraces, numerous Quinta's each with its own special character, steep slopes and hair-raising bends, a terroir of ancient metamorphic sedimentary rock, schist and granite, mineral enriched soils.
A synergy of the ever-changing micro-climate in the valley; the influence of the sun, its angle, heat and reflection off the river, the individual design of each vineyard parcel and the diversification of terrain all contribute to the production of world class wines. Hang on, I almost forgot something - the Vintners themselves and their dedicated teams. Big names are found here, award winning experienced Wine- and Port-Wine makers, something for every taste and pocket.
Quinta do Crasto is one of them. High up on the hills and in close vicinity to Quinta de S. Luiz, do Crasto boasts countless awards of distinction in both the Wine/Port-Wine and the Tourism sectors - to no surprise. Easily spotted from the main road but if you're not local its quite a tricky place to get to. The instructions on their website are detailed but luckily for me, my guide from SurfWineTours had been there before and also proved to be a safe driver.
Here I "purchased" my first Portuguese Memory. Crasto Superior DOURO DOC, a 2019 vintage with 14 % - enough strength to propel me off my chair like an ejection seat, certainly of an afternoon and in this heat. I am not normally a red wine Pro but together with the view, this wine knocked me for six.
Sitting on a shady ledge overlooking the vines, giddy euphoria and a sense of exhilaration engulfed me like a veil. Not for the first time this holiday I felt personal connection.
Slightly feeling the heat not to mention the alcohol, my next treat was a pleasurable short outing on the river, extremely welcome and the ideal refreshment before dinner.
The valleys' scenery is remarkable. You don't need to be a nature- or wine-lover to feel a magnetic attraction once there. I highly recommend an hour on a traditional old boat starting from Pinhão, it'll cool you down and blow away all those cobwebs, also ruin your hairdo.
Following a short wash and brush up at the hotel with the sun now lower in the sky, it was time to still my encroaching appetite.
The Writer's Place situated directly on the bridge in Pinhão, offers a grand view over the river and first impressions told me, that whatever time of the day or night you turn up here you'll always get a hearty welcome.
It's one of those hidden little Portuguese gems you must visit. Traditional fayre – delicious too, homemade wines and a Host who can only be described as just that.
It may seem a little unfair when I say that the restaurant and its' owner reminded me of the old British TV series "Faulty Towers" where the waiter (Manuel) runs around causing bedlam and chaos in a restaurant full of hungry guests, but I mean this in a sympathetic and kind way when I make the comparison. It simply was entertainingly good quality.
Seldom do you find such characters and dedicated Restaurant proprietors these days, they're a dying breed and well worth supporting.
An enchanting and educating day came to an end on the hotel balcony with a view I certainly won't be forgetting in my lifetime.
A short call to reception was all it took to be served with not a only a smile but also a chilled bottle of excellently chosen Sao Luiz Colheita Branco, Douro DOC, a delicious blend of Gouveio, Arinto, Viosinho and a little Rabigato, all native Portuguese grape-varieties.
With an insatiable desire to learn more and growing appreciation for Portuguese wines, I realised this wouldn't be the only trip I'd be making to Portugal.
On return to my comfortable room, the Port Wine Selection kindly placed in my Mini-Bar sent me off to sleep with satisfaction and blissful thoughts.
By the end of day three, SurfWineTours had long since come up trumps.
Instead of having breakfast at the hotel I was taken to a quaint local Café in Pinhão with a balcony overlooking the river. This meant getting up a little earlier than usual as the Tour at Kopke was scheduled for 10.30 am already and despite having been blessed with a strong constitution, even I won't drink on an empty stomach, justification for my choice of not only one, but two delicious looking Portuguese pastries to accompany my coffee.
The history behind C.N. Kopke is interesting and makes a good read here: https://kopke1638.com/. Noting the name I wasn't surprised to find out that it was a German - Mr. Nicolai Kopke and his son Christiano, who played a pivotal role in the Company's founding.
Not wanting to be presumptuous, but I'm sure I'm right in saying so, we British contributed big time to the production of Fortified Wines and the development of the industry in our search for a thirst-quenching French alternative, being at the time in clinch with France. The discovery of Portugal as a wine producing nation came as a Godsend to the Brits but lengthy shipment and the resulting need for preservation were first to be resolved.
The full-bodied wines of the Douro Valley proved more than suitable for the British palate and by adding Brandy before fermentation was complete, the remaining natural residual sugar and flavours kept the wines not only sweet and fruity but also improved their lifespan.
My Tour Guide, Mr. Carlos, who more than deserves a special mention is a unique character, enthusiastic and super sympathetic, has a charming manner and an excellent way of communicating despite not normally doing his Tour in English. NuNu, his Pendant and Partner in Crime in the Sales Department also did a very convincing job. Compliments to the pair of you.
On the Agenda, a vertical Port Wine Tasting kicking off with a 7-year-old Fine White followed by Tawny aged for 10, 20, 30-, and 40- years respectively. The climax of this crescendo of flavours was most definitely experiencing my own 1966 Vintage and what a blaster it was!
First though, I was to be shown around the cellars. On entering the premises, the fragrance was soporific. Imagine a combination of yeasty, slightly musty smelling century old wine cellars filled with maturing quality wine in oak barrels and the Asbach Brandy Distillery (which I had the pleasure of visiting quite a few years back) in Ruedesheim on the Rhine, Germany. The perfume here will simply bowl you over long before tasting has even begun.
We've all seen traditional oak casks used for wine maturation, also used for Port Wine yet I'd never seen anything this size!
Ruby and Tawny Port Wines differ not only in colour but in flavours depending largely on age and cask exposure.Ruby Ports are fruity with a hint of chocolate or liquorice. With a Tawny, the older they get the rustier their appearance (in colour) with underlying notes of caramel, nuts and dried figs depending of course, on personal perception.
The gigantic and impressive barrels seen on my picture are home for Ruby Port maturation, smaller ones being used for the Tawnys. Vintage Ports on the other hand are in a Caliber of their own. Declaration and succeeding bottling of a Vintage Port relies not only on a high-quality Vintage Wine, but also on a long and complicated procedure with final approval lying in the hands of the IVDP (Instituto do Vinho do Porto e Douro) who is responsible for not only regulating quality, but also quantities released to the market.
Prior to the Tasting, Mr. Carlos gave me a brief insight and short tour around the vineyards where I learnt a lot about traditional Portuguese Viticulture and modern-day Trends and transition.
For years, many of the vineyards in Portugal were simply a Pot-Pourri of indigenous grape varieties, not meaning they produced bad wines- quite the opposite, but times are changing, as is philosophy with quality and the emphasis on single variety cultivation expanding.
According to statistics, annual Portuguese wine production is on the increase as is their yearly export value. Contributing to these figures are many young up and coming, well trained and passionate Vintners, the next Generation. Keeping an eye on Wines of Portugal is something I''ll certainly be doing myself, trying them is however much more fun.
The small Island of Madeira and The Azores are also now on my Bucket List.
So much to look forward to, so much more yet to be discovered- on the journey to follow, down south with still 2 days left to go…
Gail
Fotocredits: © GailTreuer
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