AGING FACILITIES
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- Apr 19
- 6 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
Ribera del Duero – La Ruta del Vino, SPAIN
I love travelling, flying in general. But what I hate, is not being able to speak the native lingo. On a recent trip to Ribera del Duero in Spain, we were lucky enough to be fully equipped with a charming both German- and English-speaking guide and most importantly, one who knew the ins and outs of the local cuisine: Loreto Esteban Guijarro (pictured left below, with Jaime centre-stage).
Fotocredit: Sissi Chen
The region is situated approximately two hours north (by car) of Madrid and split into four provinces: Valladolid (where we were), Burgos, Soria and Segovia. Although just 115 KM from east to west, car-hire is probably a good idea if wanting to explore in full. Surrounded by hills, the area in direct vicinity to the Duero River is understandably flat, so cycling is also a good way of getting around – once you are there.
Steeped in history, the Ribera del Duero (Ruta del Vino) boasts plenty of impressive historical monuments, such as the more than 200 metre long Peñafiel Castillo which dates back to the 11th century. Built high up on the hill, the imposing battlement walls look down on the town like a watchful eye from above.
The stronghold`s appearance has been altered many times since the first foundation stones were laid and houses today, the Provincial Wine Museum of Valladolid - a great location to kick off.
Presuming when you visit, you are interested in viticulture, the Wine Museum offers an informative display of the history of winemaking, growing techniques, the importance of the area`s geology, their famous grape varieties and much more.
Our home base was in Peñafiel, which not only offers several quality hotels both with and without Spa facilities, but also some excellent restaurants.
UNDER ONE ROOF
Hotel AF PESQUERA is a four-star residence built on the foundations of an old flourmill, with grain besides wine production, playing an important role in local economy. The hotel offers good value for money, has two excellent restaurants - Taberna la Perla and ORIGEN-ES (covered in Part Two) - and otherwise modern, comfortable facilities. If though, you are more of a wellness freak, I suggest you try out the nearby Castilla Termal, which we also paid a visit to during the stay.
Located within the 12th century Monasterio de Valbuena, and just 15 minutes west of Peñafiel is one of the regions many fantastic examples of how Culture, History, Wine and Wellness have successfully been united under one roof. Seldom have I seen a hotel so beautifully integrated within the walls of such ancient architecture.
The monastery grounds are impressive, offering a peaceful retreat from the fast-track world around us. The centuries old walls, which surely have more than one tale to tell, have been intricately restored offering today, high-quality furnishings, fine dining and a well-equipped exquisite Spa-Space. This is The Address for a perfect getaway.
Fascinating too, and unknown to the general public, is the well equipped underground Atelier, where religious artifacts, sculptures and statues from all over Spain are carefully restored to their former glory. Although not presently open to the public, plans are already in order to change this.
NATURE`S INSIGNIA
Ribera del Duero is one of the highest wine-growing regions in Europe, with some vineyard sites reaching 1000m (above sea-level). The vines, which have adapted to both high-altitude and the extremes of temperature by day and by night, produce wines of distinct character and unique flavours, easily competing with the Best of Rioja.
In direct vicinity to the tree-lined river valley, fertile soils provide ideal growing conditions for the cultivation of grain. But it`s on the foothills of these plains where the regions` Real Macoy – the vineyard planting begins. Over the centuries, the Duero River has eroded bedrock and created fertile river terraces (at high altitude).
Breath-taking views, passing still snow-sprinkled mountains on our way, already displayed the geological metamorphosis, the array of intermingling bedrock and the rainbow of earthen shades which make this region so unique. Sandy rich alluvial deposits along the river transition into reddish ferrous clay, stoney foothills and slopes of white limestone and chalky deposits.
Castilla y León, to which Ribera del Duero belongs, is subject to all extremes a continental climate brings with it. Long cold winters call for robust vines, as do the hot dry summers (over 40 °C). The river, despite providing badly needed cooling moisture during the warm dry season, may not though, be used by all the wineries for irrigation.
TEARS OF JOY
“We have to wait for the rain to come” says Jaime Miranda Martín, Wine-Tourism Manager at Emilio Moro. “Grapes ripen fast here, but thanks to the altitude, the cool night-time temperatures in summer (10–15 °C) help maintain acidity levels, crucial for vibrancy in our wines”. As we arrived, the ancient vines were just showing first signs of life and bud-burst awaited in full anticipation.
Challenging conditions to say the least, and risky business from one vintage to the next. The Ribera del Duero, a classified Denomination of Origin (D.O.) since 1982, now boasts over 300 Bodegas and is rightly considered one of Spain’s finest wine-producing regions.
It is also HOME TO TEMPRANILLO – the Spanish King of Grapes.
The locals here call Tempranillo “Tinto Fino or Tinta del Pais”. Over one third of the vines are between 45 and 80 years old and grown as once the romans did, in a Gobelet (bush vine) fashion - typical for hot, dry climatic conditions. The berries are small, thick skinned and deep in colour and when bush cultivated, can only be maintained and harvested by hand. Further approved varieties here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Garnacha Tinta. Albillo Mayor is the regions only approved white grape, with more whites (Verdejo, Godello) and rosé wines produced in D.O. Cigales and D.O. Rueda.
ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK
One family of winemakers who since the beginning of the 19th century have grown up amongst vineyards and barrels, are the Moro`s. Founded in 1987 and today in third and fourth generation, Bodegas Emilio Moro is one of the regions` well-known names and worth a visit. Down-to-earth, creative and with a deep appreciation for their heritage, the Emilio Moro Flagship wine (pictured above) was launched in 1989.
Greeted by Jaime Miranda Martín, our visit began with a tour of the Winery lead by Loreto, a well-known figure and obviously a welcome individual herself. Wines in Spain are classified in accordance with their aging process: Joven, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, each category a reflection of Terroir and vinification techniques. At our own risk, we entered the Aging Facility, to then be introduced to Malleolus.
The term "Majuelo" is said to describe a young vineyard which is over 150 years old – a logic, I won`t even try to comprehend. Alternatively, it is an agricultural term reserved for a young vine reaching four years of age, when yields can finally be taken seriously. In Pesquera de Duero Malleolus’ - in Latin - “majuelo” – describes the oldest existing vineyards and those still producing well-balanced elegant wines of character, respectfully given the necessary time they need to enfold.
All three of Emilio Moro`s Malleolus wines are historically significant and marked a turning point in the Ribera del Duero designation of origin, when the Moros laid their focus more on the vintage, rather than simply on barrel aging. This does not mean however, that Emilio Moro do not barrel-age. They do, in fact, use a great deal of both French- and American oak casks and of varying sizes. But it`s only the barriques (225 l) which count for the required maturation time spent in wood - for Crianza, for example, a minimum of 12 months cask plus 12 months bottle are required.
Planted in 1964, the most important single vineyard site is Sancho Martin. Here, bush vine yields are minimal, also regulated by strict wine-law, allowing just 2000 l/hectare, in comparison to perhaps 4200 l/hectare elsewhere.
High up on the hillside, and with a vineyard birds-eye view we enjoyed our first two Emilio Moro wines of the day. The Tour and small Aperitif, as Jaime put it, were followed by a tasting par excellence and a delicious lunch, which we enjoyed back at the Bodega`s own restaurant facilities. This is a bookable tour and the one I recommend you choose. Also, be sure to ask for Jaime!
Our second tasting at Emilio Moro included:
1. Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut - Emilio Moro are official distributors of Joseph Perrier.
2. La Revelía 2022 - a new project in D.O. Bierzo, 100 % Godello.
3. Malleolus 2022 - grown on stony, chalk soils, 100% Tempranillo.
4. Malleolus Valderramiro 2021 - grown on clay soils, 100% Tempranillo.
5 Malleolus de Sanchomartin 2021 - grown on clay-loam with Limestone deposits, 100 % Tempranillo, the Bodega`s Crème de la Crème and my personal favourite. A full-bodied aromatic red, with a mouthful of ripe red-currant, lush black cherry and blackberry, a touch of allspice, cinnamon and clove, vanilla, dark chocolate and slightly balsamic. Well integrated pleasant tannins and acidity, with a super long finish. Justified, the price.
Should you already have a little tasting experience, this is a fascinating flight, where it really is possible to taste the differences in Terroir. As to our meal, one we chose individually……well, see for yourselves!
@Jaime, many thanks for this quite incredible experience!
Part Two to follow…
Fotocredits: Gail Treuer
