A Wine and Travel Week Post-Tour 2024
MAKING Memórias
Still trying to get my head around the fact that I was invited to the Wine and Travel Week in Porto, I was presented with a new challenge.
All international Buyers and Journalists could register for a Post-Tour, a tour which would take us to one of the show-cased regions of the event. This challenge meant choosing between one of the following wine-growing areas: the Azores, the island of Madeira, the golden plains of Alentejo, the coastal region of the Algarve, the wine-hub of Lisboa, the heart of Central Portugal, or Porto and the North. Three regions could be chosen in line of preference, first, second and third.
My first choice fell on Central Portugal, which I changed at least three times as the decision was not an easy one. In need of a breath of fresh air following the hustle and bustle of the two B2B days of speed-dating, we prepared ourselves for the morning pick-up. Depending on the destination, some had to rise early, and I am not sure all participants had seen their bed sheets following the merriment of the night before…😊
BANTER IN THE BUS
Thirteen individuals were heading for Central Portugal. International Buyers and Journalists, also representatives of Portuguese Tourism. Every one of them contributed one way or another to the overall enjoyment of the next three days. A short introduction should highlight the importance of such events for the industry.
On departure, I grabbed the front seat, sitting opposite Paul Knight. Paul is Director at Travel Knights – a Travel Agency based in Prestwich, UK. Travel Knights is a family run, independent travel company with over 40 years of experience in the industry. Paul & Emma Knight both work in the business daily and are soon planning special Food & Wine Tours to Portugal, hence Paul’s attendance. Paul was extremely satisfied with his new connections and couldn`t wait to get home to start planning.
Behind me, UK based Carol Keller and owner of Wine Keller. Herself and her husband Jürgen are specialists in Wine and Travel Tourism. Carol had been to the Wine and Travel Week in its first year but as a Journalist, already dealing with Portugal as a holiday destination. Wine Keller create bespoke and authentic Wine Experiences throughout the world. "We had already gathered an incredible amount of information concerning Portugal, so now want to embark on new tours. We are on the lookout for something different, ways to highlight the wonderful Portuguese traditions, the cuisine and of course, the wines. As we concentrate on off the radar, authentic experiences, the Wine and Travel Week is an ideal opportunity to discover such locations, also unique producers.
The results so far, exceed our expectations."
Adrian Hall kicks off this year with his VinoCulture Tours, but isn't a newcomer to the trade. Offering Premium Wine Tours for high-end FIT clientele, wine clubs, restauranteurs, and enthusiasts, Adrian was in Portugal for the first time. VinoCulture Tours is putting together fully customized, tailor-made itineraries highlighting wine production, agriculture, cuisine, history, and local culture and was, as were so many, overwhelmed by what the country has to offer. Adrian travelled with the post-Tour group to Northern Portugal.
"What I was looking for at the Wine and Travel Week, were small-production winemakers producing high quality wines and with a good story to tell. Also, the desire to share their craft and their terroir with appreciative travellers." Adrian told me. "Each region here is marvellous in its own way. The North offers the historical and dramatic Douro, but also the unfolding development in Vinho Verde is a real surprise for those associating the region with just inexpensive, low-alcohol, fizzy whites. In the Centre of Portugal, the Dão area and its wines are getting a great deal of attention, and rightly so, with some impressive, highly structured, and elegant wines coming from the producers. Then you have the Azores. The wines from Pico are truly unique and produced in really challenging conditions. You can almost taste the sea in them, but in a positive way of course!"
Yes, Portugal certainly has a spot to suit every expectation and taste.
Talking of taste, sitting behind Paul and opposite Carol in the bus was Victor, who later turned out to be our Food-Expert. A man of few words, yet one of hidden talents as we were to discover. Brazilian born Victor Barros, Executive Director at World Cooking Experience is not only Chevalier of the oldest gastronomic confraternity in the world - Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, guest content writer for several gastronomy magazines columns, but also writer and evaluator for Google Travel and TripAdvisor. I’ll come back to Victor later.
Further international guests heading for Central Portugal even came from Tokyo. The Japanese Tour Operator Kuoni Tumlare Japan. Inc. serves the Japanese market for Corporate Incentives, private bookings, Further Education, TV and SIT.
Guy Haran, whom I had the pleasure of meeting in advance of the event virtually, is CEO at Vinspiration and based in Israel. Guy and his team of wine and culinary experts have 15 years of experience under their belt and have visited many such events in the past.
Guy offers tailor-made travels to Spain, Italy, France, Hungary, South Africa and of course, Portugal. Now aware of his guests’ preferences, Guy knows exactly what to look for. In a notably sympathetic manner and with a sharp eye for detail, Guy chooses future Partners carefully, considering perhaps only 20% of new connections in his plans.
Brazilian participant Alexandre Bezerra with Haveawineday, organises Private Tours mainly in Portugal, but also to further destinations in Europe such as Germany. Alex was to become our group historian and substitute guide with an unusual, specialised subject. Anita Breland is a Porto-based Travel Writer focused on food and wine.
Anita was keen to check out wine destinations in Dão and Beira Interior for sharing with her readers on Anita's Feast and other outlets. Yvonne de Boer, originally from Amsterdam, is owner of Local Colours & Wine Travel Services and now living in Penedès, Catalunya. Yvonne organises individual Wine Tours and Experiences, specialising in destinations in Portugal, Italy, Spain and Catalunya.
Penelope Heyes, in search of new and exciting wines for her GreatWineOnline, is from the UK and now planning trips to Portugal herself. Swedish-born Wine-Journalist and award-winning Tour Operator Sandra Piksis, visits each location personally. Doing so, her company Din Vinresa creates authentic tours, taking in both the local culture, and the gastronomy in a wide range of wine regions.
Spanish Brais Suárez González, an internationally well-travelled Freelance Journalist specialised in the World of Travel, is engaged in projects with Spanish media and writes for Traveler Condé Nast Spain. Brais, now living in Porto and a reserved young man, is quite the opposite in character to my last - but not least - group member, Bruno Gomes. Bruno, Portuguese through and through and owner of Wine Experiences.pt, adopted the back seat of the bus and at once established himself as group 'Entertainer' and native 'Big Spender' of regional information.
For the cosmopolitan Pot-Pourri of guests, the journey of discovery to Central Portugal could begin.
MAGNIFICENT VIEWS AND SUNNY SKIES
Day one
Introductions in the bus didn't take half as long as mine here and very soon there were high levels of enthusiastic (and noisy) communication on the way to our first stop: the historical town of Viseu and presumed birthplace of Portugal’s first King Afonso I.
Viseu lies in the heart of the Dão Winegrowing Region, where the landscape is rugged, mountainous and covered with granite rocks and pine trees. Our guide for the morning, Sofia Mendonça, did a grand job of looking after us there. In an informative and often amusing fashion she explained the history of Viseu, spiced up with witty tales and anecdotes.
Included in the tour, a visit to the medieval Cathedral Sé de Viseu, built on the highest point of the town with spectacular views, and home to the Grão Vasco National Museum. Directly opposite lies Igreja da Misericórdia or Our Lady of Mercy Church, built in 1775.
Having walked off breakfast under the sunny skies of Viseu and done our fair share of church visiting for one day, it was time for some serious culinary intake. Around 2 pm, we journeyed to Caminhos Cruzados and Quinta da Teixuga in Vilar Seco Viseu. Ana Rita Ferreira, responsible for hospitality at Terras & Terroir and Regional Sales Manager for Caminhos Cruzados, Luís Filipe gave us a hearty welcome.
Exploration here began in the vineyards, which incorporate their very own Weather-Station, later doing overtime with the weather getting worse by the minute, not dampening though, our spirits. Luis’ guidance through the wine cellar gave us an excellent insight into production methods and the history of the winery.
Geographically spoken, this is a unique wine-growing region. It profits from mountainous protection to cold inland winds, benefits from ocean fog, and the daytime highs and nighttime lows in temperature create vigorous vines.
Together with harsh granite terrain and an ample natural water supply, these factors contribute to the production of complex, fresh wines, born of strong and hardy vines.
In the oak department, several wines are aged in barrels of differing sizes, textures and toasting levels, creating classy and expressive wines.
Talking of wines, Miguel, the house chef, had been busy upstairs in the show-kitchen.
A culinary pilgrimage full of tasty regional delights and carefully chosen wines rounded off our visit to Caminhos Cruzados.
We not only enjoyed our time here, but Luis, Ana Rita and Miguel's professionalism upheld the obvious high-standards and quality.
IN A FADING GARDEN VILLAGE, THE GARDENS BLOOM AGAIN.
Just a stone's throw away from Quinta da Teixuga lies the Santar Garden Village. Here the Present meets the Past and despite the season’s still chilly temperatures, vegetation was exploding. A magical location with plenty to see and encounter.
The biodiversity and expanse of the re-claimed gardens include not only an extensive vegetable and herb garden, but also healthy vines and the wine-cellar.
Ana Constantino, responsible for our comprehensive introduction to this extensive project, did so in an informative and ardent fashion.
Following a stroll through the awakening gardens, a little trespassing on royal turf and a small wine-tasting, we made our way to check-in, fatigue encroaching.
Santar Garden Village, particularly in the summer months I can imagine, is an absolute must for all lovers of history, horticulture and stately homes.
And presuming you enjoy Cultural Heritage as much as I do, then the Hotel & Spa Valverde will be right up your street, especially if spending more than 12 hours there, as we did.
Once known as Casa das Fidalgas, the charming aristocratic manor house from the 17th century has an air of wealthy bourgeoisie.
A hand-written welcome on our pillows added a personal touch on arrival, together with fresh fruit and chocolates in every room. I found this place fascinating, fascinated by its charm, the atmosphere of bygone days and most of all, the library. Their ancient collection of literature will surely entice me back one day, simply to read…
The Memórias Restaurant, bearing the same name as the houses own wine portfolio, is set back behind the main building and accessible via a cobbled courtyard.
Luis Almeida, the establishments star chef, produced a high-class menu to which much thought had been given.
With each course perfectly paired with wines from Dão, the memory-making intent or Memórias, as was written on our dessert plates in cocoa, undeniably accomplished.
BEIRA INTERIOR, PAST AND PRESENT
Day two
An early start with trusty bus driver José, took us to Mangualde and the Vale da Estrela Cheese Factory. Unfortunately, the weather had taken a turn for the worse, now cold, windy, and wet. But the Shepherds who still roam the mountainous hillsides here, as weather-worn as the rocks they walk on, are upholding a tradition with a little local support. An austere environment, yet an ideal habitat for the wandering flocks of native Bordaleira sheep.
Characteristic of the Serra da Estrela region, this breed of sheep is the main provider for the distinctive DOP (Denominação de Origem Protegida) Queijo Serra da Estrela cheeses made on the premises. On arrival at the factory, the sheep gave us a woolly welcome, but not known for their intelligence, stayed out in the rain whilst we went indoors.
There are various cheese-making procedures creating differing tastes and textures. Artichoke Thistle (Cardoon) is used together with salt, for example, as rennet to coagulate (curdle) the milk. Sheep’s milk, with nearly twice as much fat content as cow’s milk, lends to a richer consistency. During our visit we were invited to try the delicious range of cheeses available, accompanied of course, with a choice of wine, both red and white.
In 2023, and confirmation of the amazing work being done here, the Serra da Estrela PDO Cheese was ranked eighth best Cheese in the World in the TasteAtlas listings. A well-deserved accolade to an admirable project and a tribute to all involved, both past and present.
GUIDELESS IN GUARDA
Following a change of itinerary, we headed for Guarda with a little free time on our hands.
Guarda, founded at the beginning of the twelfth century by King Sancho I, was built as a stronghold and is a city of granite steeped in history.
In the Middle Ages, Guarda played a significant role in the defence of the Portuguese border against the Spanish, as did the Cathedral Gargoyles.
As our Post-Tour had no official accompanying guide other than José, our bus driver, we were left to our own devices between schedules. This happened basically just this once. As soon as the bus doors opened, the women scuttled in one direction – towards the shoe shops, and the men in the other.
Alex, however, had information up his sleeve which he kindly wanted to share. Having rounded us up at the cathedral like the local Town Cryer, he proceeded to point out some cathedral details we probably wouldn’t have found in a history book.
Built in granite by King João I at the end of the 14th century, the Guarda Cathedral is considered Portugal’s most symbolic Gothic church. Gargoyles in their day, not only had a decorative function, if they can be described as such, but were too, the medieval answer to drainpipes. Often gargoyles, not the prettiest of creatures, were used for channelling rainwater away from the stone façade. The necessity for an orifice through which the water could pass, becomes apparent. One of Guarda's Gargoyles hangs 'Bottoms-Up' with his over dimensional extremities facing east.
It appears he is giving his Spanish neighbours, who were defeated in the Battle of Aljubarrota, the 'bums' and not the 'thumbs-up'. Perhaps this scary little fellow, with his vastly gaping 'Pa®sshole', really did play a role in defeating the Crown of Castile. We will never know but will be forever grateful to Alex for the thought-provoking fact😉!
NOBRE VINHOS E TAL – Award-Winning Wine-Bar and Restaurant
'Take your ease, eat, drink, and be merry.'
When in the highest and youngest Wine Region of Portugal an experienced Banker decided to invest in his year-long passion rather than in further dealings on the Stock-Market, many local inhabitants thought he was losing the plot.
In 2017, having given up his secure job in the Financial World, Aveiro born Pedro Noble, without an ounce of earlier experience in the trade, opened his restaurant doors for the very first time. Today, the highly acclaimed Noble vinhos de tal in Guarda still has more guests from abroad than local ones, a fact I can’t quite get my head around.
Pedro, having always had a soft spot for high quality wines, may have wished he'd made this decision sooner. With the support of his young family, and in a notably accessible fashion, he now runs one of the best restaurants in Portugal, offering exquisite cuisine and wines of excellence.
Of the 550 personally tried and tested Portuguese wines available, 120 are from Wine-Producers in proximity to Guarda.
CASAS ALTAS, for example, is one of them. A small family run winery in Souro-Pires and just 30 minutes away. A doctor by profession, José Madeira Afonsos decision to enter the world of wines was, similar to Pedro, one of devotion and following the inheritance of a number of family vineyards. José was also one of the first Portuguese winegrowers to plant Chardonnay, producing mouthwatering wines which we were now introduced to.
Pedro kicked off with a beautiful golden yellow 2006 CASAS ALTAS Espumante Brutto. A sparkling, still amazingly fruity, with a fine perlage and elegant notes of yeasty, buttery Brioche. At around €40,00 apiece, I would have happily taken some home with me. Apparently though, we’d just drunk the last available bottle.
Wine number two also came from the CASAS ALTAS cellars and was as convincing as the first: a still Chardonnay this time, vintage 2004.
Our meal, which Pedro served personally, was a colourful and tasty selection of traditional Portuguese cuisine and prepared to perfection.
Strongly influenced by the mountainous Serra da Estrela terrain, the Beira Interior cuisine is a hearty one of pork, lamb, goat meat and fish dishes, not implying, that they’re not good at puddings.
A perfectly baked coconut sponge served with coconut milk cream and paired with a 2022 Vinho Licoroso, was literally the icing on the cake to our Noble vinhos de tal luncheon. This dessert wine is made of Marufo grapes, soft and fruity on the palate and garnet in colour. Together with the fluffy light sponge, one of the best food and wine pairings I have ever tasted.
Solar do Vinho da Beira Interior is the headquarters of the Beira Interior Wine Route, and a Welcome Centre and extensive wine shop in Guarda.
Here, Margarida Andrade & Francisco Antunes gave us an inspiring presentation, ensuring at the same time, that our wine levels remained constant. With batteries re-charged and amidst a howling gale, we embarked on our next journey.
AT SUNDOWN TIME STANDS STILL
The ruins and rooftops of the centuries old village of Castelo Rodrigo, one of Portugal's twelve Aldeias Históricas - historical villages, are visible from far-and-wide. High up on a hilltop, they watch over the surrounding countryside, as was their purpose. Today, still an imposing sight and on arrival, seemingly abandoned.
A sincere and warm welcome to Casa da Cisterna, our abode for the night, was followed before supper, by a short, guided tour of the castle ruins. In anticipation of the weather, Ana Berliner, Hotel Manager of 17 years, kindly provided the group with warming shawls, as the encroaching storm was now upon us, making this splendid setting and the atmosphere quite bewitching.
Our gritty Staying-Power was rewarded with dramatic, panoramic views and a stunning sunset, before finally thawing out for the day in front of an open fire.
Dinner with Ana, who genuinely contributes to the relaxing and homely atmosphere of the hotel, ended quite unexpectedly.
The already harmonious group was now taken to new but musical heights. Victor, our man of few words but obvious hidden talents - Victor, had discovered the house guitar, and went on to set the stage for both melancholic and jovial merriment. We might not make the charts with our musical chorus, and God forbid the internet finds a recording, but these musical moments together were a worthy end to two fantastic days of travel.
The Portuguese have one word for this: SAUDADE
Many thanks to you dear Victor and of course to Ana.
WINE ON THE ROCKS, Marialva Castel and Casas do Côro
Day three
With three wonderful days coming to an end, we reluctantly left the walls of Castelo Rodrigo and our dear host Ana Berliner, to travel to our Post-Tour’s last destination: Castelo de Marialva, another stunning and impressive Aldeias Históricas.
En-Route we sliced the edge of the beautiful Douro Valley, passing hills laden with granite rock and olive- and blossoming almond trees, an impressive sight at this time of year.
The owner of Casas do Côro, Paulo Romão and a man with a mission, was expecting us together with his son Pedro Sampaio.
Rain threatening, our planned open-top Jeep Tour was replaced with the comfort of two buses. Despite expert navigation over and around the large granite boulders, Paulo and Pedro at the wheel, the low suspension meant a bouncy ride.
Through the medieval village, over ancient stone bridges and past vines surrounded by archaic stone walls, we soon reached Paulos vineyards.
Extremely challenging terrain for the cultivation of vines, and just one element of Paulo and his wife Carmens’ already 24-year-old project.
The recently pruned vines grow in small walled parcels and can only be worked by hand. Yields are low, yet of high quality and the production, which Paolo and his team took back into their own hands just a few years ago, carried out solely for the Hotels own use.
But this is not a family of vintners. Paolo, originally from the Textile Trade, began investing in old properties in the historical town of Marialva 24 years ago.
Today, they boast 13 fully equipped cottages with a total of 31 charming rooms, an elaborate restaurant, and an elegant and sophisticated Spa area.
Casas do Côro is Eno-Tourism at its finest, with the focus on tourism and not, as we have otherwise seen, on winemaking. A successful combination, reinforced by Paolo and Carmens' own high standards and expectations.
In addition to their hotel complex, the owners have invested in a property on the banks of the famous Douro River. From there, guests may take a boat trip on the establishments very own yacht and enjoy a swim and culinary delights with good wines, in the shade of the anchorage veranda.
Further activities include exploration of the historical village itself, local festivals, or a guided tour of the Marialva Castle ruins (our guide was outstanding). This is a project par excellence. Paolo and Carmen may deservedly look to a prosperous and bright future. I highly recommend you check them out.
The delicious late lunch was a family affair and taken in the company of both Paolo and Pedro and in front of an open log-fire. Accompanied by a choice of fine wines, there was no better way to end three memorable days in Central Portugal.
PORTUGAL, WORTH A VISIT?
"Hell yes!" Canadian Journalist and contributor to Travel Life Magazine, Chris Ryall, confirmed.
"I would recommend the Wine and Travel Week as an event for Buyers, Tour Operators and Journalists alike, and I would love to come back to learn more and make additional connections."
Chris took part in the Algarve Post-Tour, but as may be said of all participants, is convinced there is much more to experience and to write about.
"I made some great contacts with Portuguese wineries, but also Wine Tour Operators both from Portugal and abroad. It was especially useful to hook-up with representatives from the various tourism regions. Meeting Catherine Leparmentier, Managing Director of the Great Wine Capitals Global Network was especially interesting. I learnt so much about the organisation and their work in the various Wine Regions and cities of the world. More Canadians than ever are visiting Portugal and I think they aren’t the only ones."
Central Portugal is an attractive destination, and I will doubtlessly be back.
I wish to thank all involved in our Post-Tour. The Organisers, the Sponsors and the Partners, without whom this trip would not have been possible. Many thanks goes too, to our trusty bus driver José.
Fotocredits: Gail Treuer