Frasqueira Extra Velha
Rudolfo Horta Soares
Coimbra, Portugal
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Born in Coimbra, Portugal in 1973, Rudolfo grew up with his family in a rural area steeped in history and tradition. The realisation of the importance of both, was to accompany him for the next 50 years and continues to do so today.
I had the pleasure of meeting Rudolfo for the first time in February 2024 in the city of Porto. There, he kindly accompanied me to one of Portugal`s most prolific Wine Fairs, reserved solely for small and unique wine producers: Simplismente Vinho. To my disgrace, I don`t speak a word of Portuguese, but Rudolfo speaks five languages and also happens to be an excellent Wine-Educator. One, who has more than just a passion for wine.
That day, and in the space of eight hours he dragged me (voluntarily) from Winemaker to Winemaker, barrel to barrel. With 111 vintners taking part, I reckon we met each and every one of them and with Rudolfos guidance, I learnt a great deal about Portuguese wines. His capability of identifying 99 out of 100 aromas, recognising vinification techniques and even pinpointing the vintage simply by using his nose, I found quite fascinating. He is a Wine-Laboratory on legs, an Alchemist - without the base metals, a humble winemaker and a reserved man too.
As a young lad he had the normal circle of friends, but from an early age, his world was endowed by a second realm, one with the fascination for scent. His father, a quality-wine and brandy enthusiast himself, kept plenty of both in the cellar and enjoyed a jovial drink with friends. Rudolfo, at the young age of just 7 years old, became the delegated cellar-runner and errand-boy. Wine styles back then were quite different from today with high tannin levels calling for a maturation period of 10 to 20 years - for softening.
Once uncorked, some of the bottles had long since surpassed their potential causing not only irritation, but heated discussions within the group. For Rudolfo, this meant an inevitable second visit to the cellar. On these occasions his inquisitive ears took in the debates, smelling for himself - in an attempt to understand what all the fuss was about.
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
At the age of just 13 years, Rudolfo bought his first barrel of white brandy - for maturation and by the time he was 18, he had gained enough knowledge – and confidence - to really start experimenting. On recommendation and quite by chance, Rudolfo bought a barrel of 40-year-old brandy, now spending more time in the cellar and the vineyards, than at home. Learning by doing, he helped out at local winemakers, yet soon sought experience further afield.
He travelled to Brazil, Italy, Austria and Spain and wherever he went, be it for one vintage or longer, Rudolfo was gathering knowledge, watching, learning, tasting and evaluating and very often, he experienced not just one vintage a year. In 2013, he received the opportunity of working as Assistant Winemaker for the MHLV Group ( Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton) in Toro, Spain. There, the iconic Termanthia wines kindled his love for ancient vines and their vinification. Expressive and with great potential, their origin: vines as old as 200 years.
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Just one year later and on recommendation, Rudolfo found himself travelling to New Zealand where he contributed to the 2014 MHLV vintage and already his second harvest that year. He soon became a sort-after consultant worldwide and in 2018 he flew to Chile. In the role of Assistant Winemaker at the leading Estate Winery in Colchagua Valley, he left his signature on the Luis Filipe Edwards` 2018 Vintage.
Rudolfo was now making wines of his own based on extensive knowledge and whilst experimenting, trained both nose and palate. He produced low alcohol, aromatic fresh whites from portuguese varieties such as Alvarinho and Loureiro. Red wines using grapes such as Baga from Bairrada, premium fruit born of ancient vines. Some base-wines he distilled for his first Eau de Vie and having now matured, this first batch counts for perhaps 20% of ASTUTA.
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
ASTUTAs delicate flavour profile is one acheived through Master-Blending: an Art handed down from generation to generation and one Rudolfo both comprehends and upholds. 40-years of maturation in a variety of casks, both in size and in choice of wood have lent complexity to his blend. Portuguese and French oak, chestnut and mahogany enhance the intricate flavours and used Madeira, Port and Muscatel wine barrels have patiently softened the tannins. Protected from sunlight and heat and for a further 9 years, he then transfers the brandy to old dark glass Demi-Johns. This rare aging-method is unique, serving fine-tuning only, maintaining at the same time, the elegant character of the wine.
11 years ago in a small stone cottage retreat Rudolfo bottled his first Brandy. The 30 year-old ASTUTA and just 50 in number. The house he acquired from an an elderly gentleman, a man whom he came to treasure and an appropriate location for Rudolfo`s work. Master Blender Rudolfo Horta Soares: an Alchemist producing Liquid Gold.
Today, I am honoured to present to you the now 40-year-old and with a batch of just 222 bottles, Limited Edition of:
ASTUTA XXO
Frasqueira Extra Velha
RARE, PRECIOUS, UNIQUE
Frasqueira was a term used in the 19th and 20th century for a particularly high quality and rare vintage Port or Madeira wine, one of 30 years or more in age. For ASTUTA, having been aged in Port, Madeira and Muscatel barrels – with the youngest of the blend for 36 years, the oldest up to 60 years, followed by 9 years in Demi-Johns – Rudolfo decided to reintroduce the definition. ASTUTA may hence be considered over half a century old, topping even an XXO Cognac, which must have aged for at least 14 years in oak to qualify as such.
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Rudolfos label inspiration was taken from a painting once produced as a gift for Salvadore Dali shortly before he died. Unfortunately, Dali neither received nor saw the artwork prior to his death. Rudolfo`s father fell in love with the pretty, mystic lady on canvas at first sight and purchased the Portrait from a close friend. As a young man, Rudolfo always swore this would be the image to adorn his very first XO Brandy.
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Crafted with Love, Passion, and Temperence.
My tasting notes are based on the original Portuguese wine-label description, Rudolfo`s individual comments and my own interpretation during our conversation and joint tasting. I for my part, wish you many an enjoyable and intimate moment in the company of ASTUTA, a night-cap worth NOT going to bed for and to all Connoisseurs and Collectors: take heed - it`s a Limited-Edition!
A very special thanks goes to my dear friend and professional UK Food Photographer Ronni Allen for providing such fantastic, atmospheric and expressive imagery!
Dear Rudolfo, I wish you the recognition you rightly deserve.
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Reservas Velhissimas: a complex, aromatic, extremely smooth and delicate 40-year-old Master-Blend aged in a variety of wooden casks (as described above). A beautiful mahogany colour with greenish hues, typical for a well-aged brandy of this calibre. A Potpourri of tobacco, roasted coffee beans, the scent of baking biscuits, ripe dark fruits - black cherry and plum. Spice and dried fruit - orange peel, raisins, nuts - enhanced with balsamic aromas of camphor and sandalwood. A touch of honey, a splash of liquorice, a small corner of dark chocolate, as Dad would say.
The fruity yet subtle sweetness and soft, velvety full-bodied finish harmonises well with an unexpected and slightly astringent dryness. A still extremely fresh blend, with high ageing-potential.
ASTUTA XXO
Frasqueira Extra Velha 0,75 l
40 % ABV
€225,00
For more information or to place your order, please contact myself under: info@gailtreuer.com
It`s not long until Christmas... ;-)
Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography