FOUR DECADES OF VINTAGE PORT
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- vor 6 Stunden
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Portweinmesse 2025
A MASTERCLASS with David Guimaraens
A MASTER IN A CLASS OF HIS OWN
For those setting off on their Vintage Port Wine journey, also for Veterans to the trade, a Masterclass is the perfect opportunity to broaden ones` horizon. But what is Vintage Port?
Of all Port Wine styles, Vintage Port is a class of its` own – the Top Notch, so to speak. High quality grapes with sufficient colour, acidity, tannin, and sugar levels are vital, also an understanding of grape characteristics, structure and where and when to harvest. Hence sound knowledge of vineyard conditions, sun exposure, and micro-climate imperative. All Ports are blended wines. The components influence the style (addressed in the 2nd Masterclass) and for Vintage Port, aging potential (in the bottle) is crucial. Two key factors to have on your radar - the winemaker`s ability and experience, for he alone makes the final decision - and more importantly - the Season, as Vintage Port should by no means reflect the winemaker`s ego, more so - its’ origin.
Host David Guimaraens is one such experienced decision-maker. As Head-Winemaker of Fonseca, Croft, and Taylor` s Port, David grew up in an empirical trade. Today, his forty years – or four decades of knowledge play a central role in placing Vintage Port back on the map. At this year’s Portweinmesse in Leverkusen he openly admits, he still has plenty of work to do and the reason for his visit. Focussing on David`s personal and quite extraordinary journey, the first Masterclass of the day covered four decades of Vintage Port in the Douro Valley. In an entertaining yet committed manner, he discussed both past and present challenges, also issues which in Davids` opinion, still need tackling. His approach to Port Winemaking successfully unifies Tradition with a simplified version of modern-day methods and during the past thirty years, he has come to realise the importance, not only of foot treading.
David Guimaraens turned sixty in October. His home now freed of teenagers, he still houses countless adolescents in his cellars - a handful are going through puberty, others just short of maturity. At the beginning of his career David studied winemaking in the New World of wine – in Australia - yet on his return in 1990, he was faced with a trade in disruption, also the recession. Until the late eighty`s, major Port producers sourced a significant percentage of their grapes from small winegrowers. Under pressure to provide quantity over quality, these winegrowers were ripping out old vine stock to replace them with single varietals. With individual fermentation combined with poor quality grape spirit and the diminishing practice of foot treading, Vintage Port was losing complexity, character, and worse still, it`s identity.
The traditional vineyard culture in the Douro Valley - one of high-density planting, native field blends and foot treading - was suffering but with the ninety`s came the desperately needed turning point. Shippers, who up till now had simply bought the wine, began snapping up vineyards to make wine themselves. Among them was Big Bruce - David`s father. David has inherited his fathers` bubbly, bold character – which may also be said for Fonseca and Guimaraens Vintage Port. Over the past 40 years he has matured, he`s drinking less but drinking better – thanks in part, to the transformation of the Trade.
Beginning the sequence with the oldest of vintages..
THE FIRST DECADE - the 90`s
TAYLOR`S QUINTA DE VARGELLAS 1991
Vintage Ports differentiate between good, exceptional, and vintages which are simply not talked about. The winemaker needs the ability to identify exceptional years and then capture these in the bottle. Vintage Port is for wine-lovers, enthusiasts and according to David, not in the slightest democratic.
1991 was a back-to-back (split-declaration) vintage, whereby not all Port Wine Houses make a Vintage declaration and Taylor`s Fladgate was one of those. Unlike the French who tend to declare everything, an exceptional Vintage Port must show the potential to mature for a lifetime (60-80+ years). Indeed, some will be enjoyable if not better, having reached 40+ years of age. To judge this the laboratory analysis, together with sensory factors including colour intensity, tannin levels and balance of flavour are crucial. True aging potential though, will depend on the wine`s structure and whether the season was on your side.
As the 1992 Vintage was so impressive, the TAYLOR`S QUINTA DE VARGELLAS 91 was bottled as a Single Quinta Vintage, sourced solely from one property. Vargellas wines are floral of character, have firm tannins and provide the backbone to a Taylor`s Vintage Port. However, they are not known for their structure and also develop at a faster rate. So Vargellas Vintages can be enjoyed earlier than others – as we soon discovered.
TASTING: Optic: brick red, with a lighter rim. Nose: powerful, ripe black fruit, marzipan, spice. Palate: fresh rich fruit - dark prunes, dates, plum confiture, cinnamon, clove, rich dark chocolate, hint of coffee bean and balsamic.
FONSECA 1994
1994 was an important year for Fonseca. Three Quinta`s – Fonseca, Taylor`s and Noval received the maximum achievable score from The Wine Spectator (one hundred points) with Fonseca the overall winner. In 1991, traditional wineries were closing but David and his father Bruce opened two new estates - Terra Feita (Taylor`s) and Panascal (Fonseca). Respect for tradition paid off when in 1994 both Quintas were recognised for their exceptional quality. It was an outstandingly good year and compared to 1991, reached a higher dimension of expression and longevity. FONSECA 1994 is living proof that a Vintage Port does not need a blisteringly hot season to be phenomenal.
TASTING: Optic: deep ruby, with a garnet rim. Nose: incredible fruit (although not a hot vintage) youthful, caramel. Palate: full bodied, ripe black fruit – cherry, blackberry. Tertiary notes of honey, caramel, spice, strong coffee. Rigid tannins well balanced acidity, slightly astringent. A long persistent finish.
THE MAGICAL 2000`s
TAYLOR`S VARGELLAS VINHA VELHA 2000
Predestined to being an overall positive decade, the acquired knowledge and conclusions drawn from the ninety`s took the 2000`s to new heights. Across the board, the vintages proved consistent and kicked off with an absolute Classic. If David`s Vinhas Velhas had taught him one thing - it was that traditional vinification methods were the only answer to safeguarding character consistency. Foot treading was one factor, high-quality spirit and co-fermentation another.
The vines harvested for TAYLOR`S VARGELLAS VINHA VELHA 2000 were first generation post phylloxera having been planted in the first three decades of the 20th century. In David`s mind though, a true Vinha Velha is one pre – 1965 and for the sake of future generations, he makes conscious not random varietal choices when planting. Beginning from scratch, David`s first vintage was also the first Vargellas Vinha Velha, launched in 1995. Today he relies on seven to eight single varieties of which just three or four make up 70-80% of the overall planting. These in turn, determine the Quinta`s identity. Fruit bombs are a thing of the past yet still not uncommon, often produced using a high percentage of one of Portugal’s most well-known varieties: Touriga Nacional. The varietal, thrown out during the phylloxera era had been reintroduced but on its own, lacks the complexity vital for a good Vintage Port.
In a Vinha Velha vineyard, phenolic maturity is variable but when harvested in sync, the profile is truly unique, replicating year upon year. This means - initial blending already takes place in the vineyard rather than the cellar. TAYLOR`S VARGELLAS VINHA VELHA 2000 boasts a mouthful of fruit, great structure, richness, and length. It`s tannins are firm but not fat and although the colour isn`t massive, the purity of fruit flavours and the tannins are outstanding.
TASTING: Optic: ruby - to brick red. Nose: floral but earthy too, ripe black fruit. Palate: firm long tannins, rich dark fruits, cherry, damson, clove, vanilla, a hint of eucalyptus. A complex wine with great length.
FONSECA 2003
Compared to TAYLOR`S VARGELLAS VINHA VELHA 2000, FONSECA 2003 is a well-behaved teenager, if not a little rough around the edges. For decades, the 1966 Vintage lived in the shadows of its 1963 predecessor. Just like 66, vintage 2003 is now beginning to open. 2000 was a cooling year with high fruit quality, expression, and fine tannins which are growing attractive with age. Vintage 2003 was quite the opposite.
Blistering heat in August (+40 °C) produced big, bad, and ugly tannins so the vintage didn`t receive too much attention. Years on, it is showing potential and as a result, receiving recognition. Chances are, vintage 2003 will do the same to 2000, as `66 did to`63. Why this is significant? It`s the winemaker`s job to understand the vintage, pinpoint potential, to understand not only the wine profile, but also that of the season. For David, the 2003 is hence an outstanding and stunning year. The 2003 Croft Vintage for example, is considered one of THE Ports of Davids whole career.
TASTING: Optic: deep crimson with brick-red. Nose: rich in red fruit, dark-chocolate. Palate: red cherry, rich strong flavours, soft tannins, stewed black fruit, blackberry, black pepper. A bold Vintage Port high in expression and character.
THE THIRD DECADE & 10 YEARS OF FINE-TUNING
CROFT 2011
Situated in Pinhão, Croft (Fladgate Partnership) bought Quinta da Roêda in 2001. Due to the south-facing exposition, Croft Ports have a unique identity. They are more tropical in character, the tannins silky, the wines said to be seductive and notably enjoyable with age. David considers Croft Vintages at least as extraordinary as those of Fonseca or Taylor and this vintage is also a true adolescent. The majority of Croft 2011 was born of first-generation post phylloxera Vinhas Velhas and to date, can`t decide whether it`s young and fruity or heading for bottle maturity.
Having learnt the hard way, David always works with 100% stems. Without them, an aging vintage Port tends to get flabby. Yes, he`s a traditionalist, but not got his head in the sand. He still welcomes certain modern methods, but nothing beats foot treading in granite lagares. Although hard work and expensive, it`s the magical way of producing Vintage Port especially during the “cut” - or first phase – most crucial for grape extraction.
In 2002, David developed the first mechanical pistons for use on top of granite lagares, yet only for phase two of treading. His approach is an acceptable compromise, an interaction of both old and new world methods and one which does not affect the individual style of each Port House.
TASTING: Optic: deep purple with greenish hues in the glass. Nose: exotic fruits accompanied by black cherry, plum, fig, subtle rose petal. Palate: rigid yet well integrated tannins. Ripe berry fruit, dark chocolate, slightly astringent, good length.
Vintage Port has one of two profiles and our third decade highlighted both. As mentioned, sufficient colour, tannins, fruit, and sweetness are essential, but the winemaker needs the season on his side. This decade was one of both ripening (2016) and concentrated (2017) years and David is in love with both.
TAYLOR´S 2016
Fonseca Vintage Ports are produced in the Pinhão and Távora river valleys. They have exceptional expression – with rich vibrant blackcurrant fruit - are BIG Ports, round and with great aging potential. In contrast, Taylor`s Vintage Ports aren`t loud “bubbly Bruces”. They are more elegant, precise, often floral. 2016 was a cooler and wetter season than usual. Physiological maturity presented highly concentrated, aromatic grapes producing wines of elegance with fine tannins. Quite typical for Taylor `s Vintage Port is colour loss with age, yet the elegance, structure and length hold fast.
TASTING: Optic: deep purple almost ebony. Nose: wild herbs, woodland fruits, blackberry, raspberry and plum. Palate: floral, eucalyptus, herby, pepper, liquorice. Black berry flavours, well balanced acidity, and long finish.
FONSECA 2017
2017 on the other hand, was hot and the grapes shrivelled on their stems. The harvest records from the monumental post-war vintage of 1945 at Quinta de Vargellas note - it was so hot and dry, drinking water for the town of Pinhão had to be delivered by wagon. Indeed, 2017 was identical, producing massive but much “hotter” fruit with firm tough tannins. The FONSECA 2017 Vintage Port is a blockbuster!
TASTING: Optic: purply-black coats the glass. Nose: concentrated rich black and red fruit, a hint of balsamic and cedar wood. Palate: persistently ripe fruit, velvety mouthfeel, firm tannins and structure, complex layers. A massively powerful wine and if I dare say it – a sumptuous fruit bomb!
David concluded; “Nature goes through different cycles. These cycles come and they go. The magic lies in opening and comparing such wines. 2016 will always be an elegant wine, never a horrible teenager. 2017 though, will still be deciding what it wants to do – may even have a midlife crisis – before showing its’ full self just short of retirement.”
THE FOURTH DECADE – PASSING ON THE BATON
David kicked the masterclass off with: “So, let`s have some fun!” which of course we did and as he said himself, he`s getting too old not to (his claim not mine). Fun aside, this last decade is one of fundamental importance. Parallel to enjoying himself, David is educating and inspiring future generations who will ideally go on to understand and support the greatness of Port. The legacy though, will only survive given plenteous followers, new enthusiasts, ambassadors and lovers of Vintage Port – securing awareness at every level.
With time running short and before Axel could pull the (German punctuality) plug, David pressed on with what will hopefully NOT be his final decade. The last declared vintage was in 2017 and a classic year. In 2022 - David`s most arid vintage to date - the vines bore beautiful fruit yet dimension was absent and hence declared a non-classic Vintage.
FONSECA 2022
Fonseca bottles non-classic Vintage Ports under the name Guimaraens. 1933 was the first declared Guimaraens vintage and their style - one of opulence and black fruit character - and still present today. Although FONSECA 2022 is an excellent Port, David recognised its` lack of longevity despite the rigid tannins. This is a blend of the best grapes of three estates: Cruzeiro and Santo António in the Pinhão Valley and Fonseca’s flagship Quinta do Panascal, sited on the right bank of the Távora river.
TASTING: Optic: deep opaque purple. Nose: wild berry fruits - wild strawberry, cassis, and blackberry. Palate: cedar wood, allspice - aniseed, cloves. Cocoa nibs, a hint of apricot and orange peel. Drink now!
SENTINELS 2022
The second non-classic, this time from Taylor`s. Sourced in the Pinhão valley from four estates: Terra Feita, Junco, Casa Nova, and Eira Velha. Bottling a non-classic Vintage enables the Port Houses to bring more to the market. For the consumer, the price is lower and as they age faster, they are highly accessible and easy drinking.
TASTING: Optic: deep purple in colour. Nose: wild red and black berry fruit. Palate: dark cherry, damson, and plums. A hint of mint, lavender, and floral rose petal. Smooth tannins round up this lengthy non-classic vintage.
Vintage Port is the only style of Port which respects and reflects its’ terroir. Its` simplicity lies in the fruit - of course - but more so, in having the skill and the discipline of bottling it as such. With a quote from James Scott, David concluded this fantastic, informative, and entertaining one-and-a-half-hour Masterclass:
“Vines cannot be cheated. Man can only understand when the fruit has been translated into wine. And even then, it often takes years to appreciate the subtleties.”
Many thanks from me to both organisors of the 2025 Portweinmesse in Leverkusen - Axel Probst and Christopher Pfaff - for inviting David Guimaraens to Germany and to David, for accepting. The next Portweinmesse takes place in Bayer Kasino Leverkusen on 27. November 2026, so be sure you save the date!
Fotocredits: Ronniallenphotography, Gail Treuer, The Fladgate Partnership, Fonseca & Taylor`s Port
