Sauvignon Blanc hits German soils
Nahe, Germany
NEITHER SMOKE NOR MIRRORS
I know many of you don`t touch the stuff, but it was International Sauvignon Blanc Day a few days back (annually, the first Friday in May), so thank you for bearing with me.
Sauvignon Blanc' s origin is still a matter for discussion, but as the vine grew wild in the Loire Valley in France, it is said to derive from that region. A popular variety, known centuries ago in France as Fiers, and thanks to the French and somewhat provocative Poet, François Rabelais, has been traced as far back as 1534. If grown on the flint-laden soils of the Loire Valley, the wines may adopt a slightly smoky or Flinty note, hence also found under the synonym: Fumé Blanc - fumé being French for smoke. In general, Sauvignon Blanc is best known for its “green”, herbal and grassy aromas, citrus, elderflower, green pepper, and gooseberry notes, and plenty of lively acidity.
Sauvignon Blanc, grown worldwide today, has long since established itself on German soils, but not all Vintners do the grape as proud as those I am about to introduce you to.
GK FOR SHORT
I have known Georg and Harald Kiltz for a good ten years now. We first met while I was doing a stint in the Nahe-Wine Region’s Winebar and Vinothek in Bad Kreuznach. It was there that I not only developed a greater understanding and appreciation for the wines of the Nahe, but also discovered my love for Sauvignon Blanc. In other words, Georg and Harald are wholly to blame for my high regard of the variety, also for my copious wine-orders.
Talented and experienced Vintners through and through, the Kiltz Family (and what a lovely bunch they are) certainly know what they are doing when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc. Well, they have practised long enough and by now, they know their vines character and quibbles like the back of their hands. With years of collective knowledge up their sleeves, GK produce wines of consistency and high-quality, with an undoubtedly recognisable signature. Although Sauvignon Blanc is their Flagship, their talents don`t end there. The GK Portfolio is extensive, offering not only German Classics such as Riesling and Pinot Noir, but also the ancient Grape Varieties, Adelfränkisch, Gelbe Kleinberger and Grünfränkisch.
PIONEERING SPIRIT
GK' s journey of discovery, leading to the success they quite rightly enjoy today, began more than 25 years ago. Harald, having just completed his training in Viticulture, was on a horizon-broadening trip down-under. Whilst there he accumulated not only a great deal of experience, but he also fell in love.
At the time, Harald' s object of desire was not his present wife Helena, but a Grape Variety. This fateful encounter with a Sauvignon Blanc from the neighbouring Islands of New Zealand triggered a new, yet challenging Vision. In 2003, GK went on to plant their first Sauvignon Blanc vines, heralding the dawn of a new era and the production of Premium Sauvignon Blanc of worldclass calibre.
UNRIVALLED
25 years on, GK have secured their position as Germany’s Number One Producers of Sauvignon Blanc. Countless awards confirm this, including two grapes in Gault-Millau. Accolades to be proud of and the reward for their hard work and determination. Their achievement may not have been an easy one, but their focus has certainly paid off. The rest is History and tastable in every single glass.
SPRING-TASTING 2024
At the recent GK (2024) Spring-Tasting, I finally had the opportunity – and took the time – to try their whole Portfolio. Not only the Sauvignon, but also their Vintage Varieties – a relatively new project and no, I didn`t forget the Sparklings, nor the reds.
For possible future celebrations (who needs a celebration I ask myself), you might like to already make a note of the GK Riesling Sekt 2020 trocken (sparkling), for example. I personally see no need whatsoever to wait for the next party, Sekt should be drunk young😉. Traditionally Bottle Fermented, this dry sparkling has a beautiful lemony-yellow colour and super-fine bubbles, is fruity on the palate without being cloying, delighting with a biscuity yet very smooth finish.
Although not normally a fan myself, the Natural and Orange Wines available convinced me too. Spontaneous Fermentation on the skins, fresh ripe citrus fruits, pleasantly yeasty, barely oxidative, so extremely palatable. Although deriving from some of the best vineyard sites they own, the natural wines, being unfiltered, may not, in accordance with German Wine Law, state their origin on the Label.
GK’s slightly tongue-in-cheek solution to this: “kein Felseneck”, made me chuckle. And the deliberate absence of strong oxidative notes is justified as follows: “We want to be able to drink it ourselves!” Georg said with a twinkle in his eye. Of the four wines on offer in this category, I personally preferred their Sauvignon Blanc Gutenberger Naturkind 2023.
PERSUASIVE, HEADSTRONG, SEDUCTIVE
The afternoon kicked off with a welcoming Secco, followed by the Rieslings, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Although not concentrating on those wines today, I will recommend the GK 2023 vintage Riesling off dry. An ideal food-pairing contender, with fresh, fine citrus notes (loads of lemon) and well-balanced acidity.
Here in Gutenberg, you will find something for every palate and taste. My personal Sauvignon Blanc journey began with “Beste Lagen”, through pastures green (though less of the grassy notes) to tropical heights on which I favoured the 2023 vintage, in comparison to 2022. A year of grape laden vines, 2023 brought forth an abundance of fruit. Quality, however, does not come from quantity. Harald and Georg’s experience and expertise led the GK team to begin selecting. The early reduction of grape-clusters – time-consuming thinning out by hand, paid off. The 2023 vintage boasts unquestionably high quality and elaborate complexity.
Geological diversity is something the Nahe-Region is well known for, accompanied by a moderately warm climate and often unique micro-climate. GK’s vineyards are situated in Gutenberg, many surrounding the ancient Gutenberg castle ruins (worth a visit), others around Bad Kreuznach. The mix of weathered red sandstone, stoney gravel and shingle, partly coated with a layer of fertile clay loam, provide the perfect basis for wines of magnitude.
(An all-time favourite of mine pictured below I must squeeze in here, although not included in my tasting notes of the day: Römerberg Sauvignon Blanc BESTE LAGEN 2021.
Fruit, Fruit, Fruit and excellent with Stilton and biscuits!)
At the GK Estate Winery I assure you, there is a wine for every palate and every taste. My personal Sauvignon Blanc journey that day began with “Beste Lagen”, through pastures green (though not so grassy ones) to tropical heights, on which I favoured the 2023 vintage in comparison to 2022. A year of fruit ladened vines, 2023 brought forth an abundance of grapes. Quality, however, does not come from quantity. Harald and Georg’s experience and expertise led the GK team to begin selecting early. The grape-cluster reduction – time-consuming thinning out by hand, paid off. Their 2023 vintage boasts unquestionably high quality and elaborate complexity.
Following two hours of intense tasting, my car-boot was as laden as were my senses saturated. But as always, Georg and Harald take the blame.
I really recommend you take a look for yourselves, but for now, I would like to make the following personal recommendations based of course, on my own palate:
Dry, with an exotic fragrance, in particular passionfruit, and a hint of citrus. An elegant but impressive and long-lasting finish and the result of an industrious vine, grown on the highest, most exposed parcels of the Kreuznacher Narrenkappe. This is one of the first documented and hence oldest vineyards of the Nahe.
Another of the many highlights during my tasting, full-bodied, more tropical notes this time, Kiwi, and animating acidity. Any green undertones, typical for a Sauvignon Blanc remain backstage. As with all the GK Sauvignons, maturation takes place in stainless-steel vats, securing, and preserving the fresh finish. Ready to drink but a candidate with age-potential for laying down in your wine-cellar.
More than simply “one for the road” and fitting for many occasions. Easy drinking and the perfect accompaniment for an evening with friends. This is a successful combination of Riesling, Ehrenfelser and Gelber Muskateller. With citrus on the nose and a mouth full of fruit – apricot and peach - on the palate. The off-dry fruity mouthfeel together with the excellently balanced acidity, make this the ideal wine for spicy and fruity Asian dishes.
For further information please contact:
Harald or Georg Kiltz
Weingut Genheimer Kiltz GbR
Zum Sportfeld 6D - 55595 Gutenberg
Telefon: +49 (0) 6706 86 33
Telefax: +49 (0) 6706 63 19
And do say hello from me!
CHEERS
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