Before leaving the tranquillity of the Douro Valley, a special place I most definitely have to see again, there's one restaurant which really deserves a mention.
Following my mega Port Wine Tasting on Day 4 with Mr. Carlos, we had a late lunch in Pinhão directly on the river. This little establishment, Bar Restaurante Veladouro, later very difficult to find on the internet, is run by a family who are natural-born hosts, great cooks and obviously passionate about what they do. The young man serving our table went more than out of his way to please and succeeded. Many thanks!
My unique Tour now left the 36 °C of the Douro Valley near Peso da Régua, having passed the impressive Bagaúste Dam where I kept my head down, to drive south-west towards Peniche. On arrival there it was just 24 °C - what a difference to 3 hours earlier and hell, was it windy!
On booking, I'd stated on my list of "Must-Do's" that I wanted to at least visit the sea knowing full well this was pushing it timewise, but I hadn't invested in Mr. Vidal for nothing and made sure I packed my cossie just in case. Getting out of the car on the edge of the cliffs was nothing for the faint hearted but luckily there was a safety barrier and at the same time relieved I have a hairdo which always looks like I've been through a hedgerow backwards anyway. It's no wonder there's so much surfing here and hell knows how these guys stay on their Surf-Boards – I could barely stand up straight on land.
Once seated, I left the menu-choice as usual to my trusted host and on entering you chose your later victim. Doing so, I had the uncomfortable feeling umpteen eyes were watching me, certainly not because I looked like Halle Berry exiting the sea in a James Bond film.
The only fish familiar to me on that counter and which caught my own attention almost immediately was pink, fresh and shiny – you got it, I'd found the huge King-Prawns.
Sorry guys - Checkmate.
Despite his impressive colour and appearance, the chap pictured on the left didn't actually end up on my plate (not that I think he really cared by now) and by the looks of him there wouldn't have been much meat left anyway once his skin was removed. Something I've made the mistake of trying before is Fish-Roe.
Today this was successfully smuggled onto the table without me noticing and was surely a meant well gesture, but even in China I had my limits, so remained polite, declining gracefully.
Guide now forgiven, as he made a wonderful wine choice, successfully washing down any traces of protein and was excellently paired to my prawns. The beautiful sea view completed the picture, enjoyed through the safety of the wind free restaurant window.
Never go swimming on a full tummy Mum always said. I didn't, but by God at the next stop I was sure going to try. A drive to the nearby beach, still blowing a howling gale, meant I could finally try out my new beach pumps (without heels obviously) as it was quite a walk from my towel pole-position to the breaking surf.
A skilfully executed beach change into my neck-high sporty Speedo suit, not wanting to cause attention or pose a threat to the Bikini-clad beauties around me, found me headed for the surf.
At last I was in- well, my knees got wet!
Quinta da Lapa lies in the Tejo Wine-Region of Portugal, my final abode for this trip and is roughly an hour's drive east of Peniche passing the famous town of Obidos on the way. A special Wine-Tasting and Estate Tour were scheduled for that evening, certainly earlier than finally took place due to my "dive" in the sea.
Arriving at Quinta da Lapa is like having hopped on to the Time-Capsule in the 1985 production of Back to the future, getting out somewhere in the 18th century. The estate itself extends over seventy-two hectares and was originally acquired as Quinta da Conceição da Lapa in 1706 by D. Lourenço de Almeida for the sum of 11.500 (silver) crusades. Years later in the hands of José Guilherme da Costa and later supported by his daughter Sílvia Canas da Costa herself an experienced architect, the manor house dating from 1756 was restored and refurbished yet maintaining the original features. Rooms are simple, very comfortable with modern bathrooms and beautiful vineyard views. A magical tranquil place and an ideal getaway for those seeking peace and quiet rather than entertainment although big events do take place there.
The Timeline available on their official website is quite fascinating and gives an excellent insight into the History of the Quinta- I highly recommend you take a look.
The evening Cellar Tour & Tasting was led by Eduardo who, with great commitment and in an interesting fashion explained the ins and outs of their cellar work, their philosophy and most importantly, uncorked the wine.
Deep below the ancient manor walls lie among other things, litres and litres of da Lapa wines. These are rightly being given all necessary time to reach drinking maturity, some already bottled, some maturing for up to 4 years, many in 225 l American or French oak barrels.
Responsible for vinification are Resident Winemaker Jorge Ventura and his team and Consulting Winemaker Jaime Quendera. Countless wine awards confirm the quality of their work but there's nothing like a personal tasting to make absolutely sure oneself and my, was I in for a treat.
Eduard's wine choice and my own personal Premium Wine-Tasting I show below, tasted in this order:
1. 2019 Nana Cuvee sparkling
2. 2022 Alvarinho
3. 2022 Sauvignon Blanc
4. 2020 Malbec Reserva
5. 2018 Touriga Nacional Reserva
6. 2015 Homagem Reserva
Having inspected the cellars, Eduardo escorted me back to the dining room, the heart of the Manor House with its beautiful Murano glass ceiling centre-piece. Isabel was in the kitchen and obviously eager to feed me, but that unfortunately had to be put on hold whilst the wines were uncorked.
The first bottle, a 2019 NANA SPARKLING WINE BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT CUVEÉ RESERVE named after Nana, Josés wife and Silvia's mother, is dedicated to her life and her character and a credit to an unforgettable and much-loved lady.
Dry yet vibrantly fruity, lively perlage, notable complexity, the perfect blend of
Arinto and Fernão Pires grapes produced as to be expected, in the traditional way; méthode champenoise with no less than 24 months on the lees. An excellent allrounder to be enjoyed as much with family around the kitchen table as in company on more formal occasions.
The 2022 QUINTA DA LAPA WHITE ALVARINHO produced with 100 % Alvarinho grapes was to date, the best wine I had tasted all week. Excellent acidity and fermentation stopped at exactly the right moment, left just enough residual sugar on the palate to ensure the fruit got out. This was one creamy smooth blaster, depicting the clayey soils on which it had grown.
My next favourite and sorry I know I am still on the whites but that's my palate preference, was QUINTA DA LAPA WHITE SAUVIGNON BLANC. A pale yellow, crisp, complex but highly enjoyable Sauvignon Blanc. This isn't an easy grape variety, it's typicity not welcomed by all palates but this one will serve a very broad audience. Temperature-controlled fermentation again and unmistakably carried out by a Pro, producing a Sauvignon Blanc to write home about.
So now it gets tricky. The reds, all bombastic and although a meal in themselves, excellent accompaniments to 5-Star dining. I however, was about to commit the ultimate of Mortal Sins.
I didn't need to be told that the 2018 QUINTA DA LAPA RED RESERVE TOURIGA NACIONAL had been awarded 91 points and hence highly recommended by the tasters of the Wine Enthusiast, that was stated on the bottle😉. Rich dark Ruby-Port coloured tears painted sinuous stained-glass windows, powerful notes of ripe cassis and rich caramel filled my nose and spread on my palate, gently accompanied by a hint of smoky wood and spice. This was one powerful wine with vigorous acidity yet a well incorporated tannin structure and a mouthfeel and length which opened up even more so, on breathing.
Leaving just one wine out and I'm glad you've stayed the pace so far; I now admit to my only, yet most mortal of sins whilst visiting Portugal.
QUINTA DA LAPA HOMENAGEM SANTA TERESA D´ÁVILA TINTO RESERVA vintage 2015 was awarded no less than 93 points by the Wine Enthusiast and had purposefully been kept to last.
Eduardo, obviously proud of not only the award but also of being part of the wine-making team and the result, was visibly disappointed on seeing my face.
This fresh bold blend of Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet, fruity, rich in tannins, the 2-year oak maturity evident on the palate, had obvious aging potential but wasn't my wine, which doesn't mean its not good, as I hope you appreciate. Sadly, should there be a bottle of HOMENAGEM in my own wine-cellar, my kids would be inheriting it.
So, there you have it, my confession. But every wine has not only individual flavours and its own character, it also has a unique story.
Studying HOMENAGEM's label you will see an inscription, obviously engraved in stone. No, it's not a gravestone, but the Insignia over the Manor House' door and chosen by D. Lourenço de Almeida, da Lapa's founder, written originally by St. Teresa of Avila, well known in her time for her Wisdom.
I have taken the liberty of translating the quote myself:
“Thou shalt not be troubled nor frightened; what will be will be, so do not lose thy faith. Patience is a virtue and he who puts trust in his faith will reap the rewards.”
The reward not for my patience but for my sins was to then be left with all these open bottles which I couldn't let "go off" and be treated to the most delicious three-course evening meal, freshly cooked and served personally by Isabel.
Dear Isabel, many thanks again.
Lisboa
My last SurfWineTours day was to finally take me to Portugal's capital Lisboa, an ancient and important Maritime Stronghold built on seven hills around the mouth of the Rio Tejo (Tagus River) and about an hour's drive from Quinta da Lapa. Following a hearty breakfast whereby Isabel seemed unconvinced that I'd had enough, we arrived in the city around 11.00 am to begin a Tour which was to prove figure-shaping.
I'd like to emphasise the "Seven Hills" bit at this point, something I hadn't paid too much attention to when mentioned by my guide. Having read online that you can book all sorts of Tours in the City; Tram-Tours, TikTok-Tours, Tours-by-foot I didn't give it a second thought, as I had booked the SurfWine "Tour"….
Lisbon is one of the oldest settlements in Western Europe and well worth a visit. There's something for everyone here; it's historical, there are plenty of Museums, attractive in most places, famous for its monumental architecture, there's the ceramics, good food and due to its location, boasts plenty of amazing viewing places known as Miradouros to which - in my case, you can WALK to.
This we did.
Lisbon, originally a Celtic settlement, has seen many invaders, conquerors and settlers in its nearly 3000-year-old history and is today as Multi-Colourful as it is Multi-Culti.
The Portuguese themselves are a nation of emigrants, the country itself, popular with immigrants, as is the rest of Europe these days.
Having climbed at least two of seven hills it was time for a short refreshment. What better way of enjoying the Seaview than with an Aperol Spritz and good company?
Something to be aware of in Lisbon are the miles of cobbled streets, pristinely polished from years of wear.
They're not only very ornate, by all means add to the City's flair with its numerous trams and tramlines, street-artists and music, they also make for slippery walking especially on a downhill bend.
So beware, don't say I didn't warn you.
Three Hills further, their corresponding valleys and a substantial number of heated footsteps later, waving with a grimace to my sweatless fellow tourists in their trams and cheap TikTok's - who I think got me on film more than once for their next Instagram "Influencer Post" surely collecting a multitude of likes - we arrived at the next destination.
To get to the Timeout Market and not wanting to show my age, I developed what I considered a rather crafty tactic for getting my breath back.
After all, I'd already opted out of the Surfing lark, so didn't want to go home with cardiac arrest, there's enough of that around already due to a certain medical intervention. I found by popping inside the odd boutique for a "look around" I benefited from just enough recovery time to stay the course, albeit having the negative effect of reducing my cash-flow.
I highly recommend a visit to the Timeout Market. It brings together the best the city has to offer both wine- and culinary wise. Even if you haven't got an appetite on entering, I'm sure you'll develop one.
I did.
The last stop before heading "home" for my last supper with Isabel at da Lapa was a flying-visit to the popular buzzing seaside resort of Cascais.
An elegant fusion of cobbled streets, historic monuments, lively bars and restaurants, beautiful beaches and untamed coastline. I said goodbye to the sea admittedly with a little sorrow in my heart, but knew at the same time, I'd be back.
Sadness aside, I suddenly remembered there was still wine back at the Quinta which needed serious attention. Someone once told me you could make ice-cubes out of leftover wine, I found this rather confusing; what's leftover wine?
Dear Readers,
Congratulations to your stamina having got this far and many thanks for allowing me to share my Portugal-Experience with you personally.
All that remains for me now, is to say a massive thanks to all concerned in making this a short but most memorable Holiday Experience of a lifetime.
A particular and warm felt thank-you goes of course, to Mr. Mário Vidal and his SurfWineTours. Without his outstanding organisation and excellent choice of locations and Boutique Wine-Hotels this would not have been possible.
Presuming I've tickled your own fancy and you're now thinking of booking yourself, I open the hotline at midnight tonight and can't wait to hear from you.
I for my part, now just need to learn to Surf! 😉
Saudade, Gail
August 2023
Fotocredits: © GailTreuer
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