Queijaria da Praça
- info2294206
- vor 12 Stunden
- 7 Min. Lesezeit
O-PORT-UNIDADE - CHEESE - PAIRING CHALLENGE
PORTO
Towards the end of the 19th century, Largo da Aguardente – renamed in 1882 in honour of the Marquis of Pombal, was well known for its Brandy (Aguardente) Market. Home too, to one of Porto`s two existing bullfighting venues of the time. These days, this small greenbelt in the heart of the Marquês district, locals gather under shady trees to play Swedish card games and dominoes. Where brandy fumes once lingered in the air, you are now more likely to be dodging pigeons, than facing a charging bull.
Most routes in and out of Praça do Marquês de Pombal date back to Roman times. During the 19th century, the Aguardente stronghold was an important part of the city's defense system and here too, taxes were levied on all goods entering the port. On recommendation and with much thanks to cheese expert Ned Palmer, we arrived at the address – on foot. A little dishevelled from the climb, but keen to begin our journey through the wonderful world of Portuguese cheese.
SHIPS WHICH PASS IN THE NIGHT
With a background in Environmental Science and a husband - Rui – in Banking, in 2019 Diana Guedes` own line of defence took a sharp right-hand-turn. Commuting to work for two hours a day left little time for herself, less so, for her small family, so Diana and Rui made a gutsy decision.
Queijaria da Praça is not the only Cheese Shop in Porto, but it`s different. On entering the premises, the first thing you receive is a beaming smile from either Diana or assistant Verónica, closely followed by the creeping suspicion, you won`t be leaving empty-handed.
The wonderful smell of cheese wafts from the counter and is reason alone, to linger a while.
Each of Diana’s artisan products is carefully selected from a range of international and Portuguese cheese producers. Nothing behind the counter appears to last exceptionally long, as batches are small and the quality high - as in turn, is demand.
Diana`s Motto is one of - taste before you buy. At peak times, advantageous for both clients and staff, as you don`t get the feeling you`re in a queue and apart from that, in Portugal, patience is hereditary.
This personal approach doesn`t end at the cheese counter and Queijaria da Praça isn`t simply a shop. Diana organises themed Tastings and Workshops for those wishing to broaden their own cheese horizon. One floor down, Diana and Rui have created a modest tasting room for groups of up to twenty-five guests and although Diana`s show-casing events are held in situ, for cheese, she is always willing to travel. Our own tasting took place in the shop upstairs and amid fellow cheese-loving visitors. Carefully prepared by Verónica, who has worked with Diana since the opening, our board contained solely artisan Portuguese fayre.
Diana`s favourite cheese is French - an old Comté aged for 36 months. In summer however, she`s more likely to go for a Spanish Manchego, enjoyed with a cold beer. Her knowledge is the accumulation of hours of research, studies, and visits to producers - including firsthand cheese-making experience. Together with Rui, she has travelled Europe, learning by doing, through tasting and observation - also much trial and error.
A PACT WITH THE DEVIL
… although never look a gift-horse in the mouth....
As a self-employed mother of two, very few situations make Diana jittery – until that is, Dirk Niepoort walks through the door. On Dirk`s first visit to her shop, Diana was unable to serve him immediately as the shop was bustling. For Dirk, not a problem at all, for Diana, a nightmare. Meanwhile, Dirk is a regular visitor, they`ve become close friends - partly due to one of Diana`s most demanding trials to date.
“Dirk asked me if I`d like to collaborate on a special project. I was excited and flattered at the same time, but on hearing his intention, my stomach churned.”
Dirk Niepoort is one of Portugal`s most significant producers of Port, red and white wines. His intention was to infuse a superior quality Stilton with his 2022 Vintage Port and to serve this at special tastings.
“Imagine - I`d never done anything like that in my life. No one could tell me exactly how infusion works, no textbook descriptions, nothing!”
And certainly, on researching the topic, every cheesemonger used a different technique. Some of them remove the Stilton lid and used a funnel to seep the cheese. Diana inserted the whole bottle to then prick the cheese, encouraging the Port to spread. For even coverage, infusion occurs from both sides, so the cheese is turned during the process. Also crucial – is sealing the rind. This prevents leakage and an unappetisingly ugly finish – as seen above.
SACRILEGE
Diana had witnessed too many failed attempts at infusion and that aside, brass-tacked reality told her - you just don`t tamper with an already excellent product. At a wits end, Diana called her UK-based cheese friend Ned Palmer for advice. To make matters worse, Ned had only just sent her a picture of a very badly infused cheese with the comment – “How on earth can someone do this to a Stilton?!”
Long story short and with a new perspective, Diana successfully infused Stilton and Stichelton with two of Niepoort’s finest Ports: a Vintage 2022 and a 20-Year-old Tawny, as seen above. Some of the finished products went on sale in the shop, where they sold like hot cakes. The remainder was sent to the Niepoort cellar. On Diana`s Instagram Channel, you`ll find the whole saga here.
THE O-PORT-UNIDADE CHALLENGE
Initially, I contacted Diana simply asking what she would recommend for pairing. My specifications: the cheese should be from Portugal and pair well with a 2023 – young and fruity - Vintage Port. Not only did Diana kindly acquire the very same Port, but she sent us an invitation and where better a place to begin our journey. With Verónica`s assistance, Diana produced a personally selected Cheeseboard and opened the bottle. A glass of O-PORT-UNIDADE in one hand and a knife and plate in the other, the tasting began.
The Portuguese cheese experience was a far cry from the one I carried out in England. With Diana`s guidance and just one hour later, we had an undisputed winner. Instead of tasting the Port then the cheese, or the cheese then Port, we performed our own infusion and directly on the palate. To determine origin, milk source, and the type of rennet, we did of course, taste each cheese individually.
I was 100% convinced that our winner would be a creamy DOP (Denominação de Origem Protegida or PDO = Protected Designation of Origin) from Central Portugal, and I wasn`t alone. Niepoort`s own Head Winemaker - Nick Delaforce, also Oscar Quevedo of the Quevedo Estate agreed with me. Serra da Estrela is a mountainous region where sheep roam freely on granite-laden hillsides. The cheese is made using cardoon thistle (vegetarian rennet) and according to Diana, it`s the amount of cardoon which affects the overall flavour.
But vegetarian rennet is known to lend bitterness to these cheeses, a characteristic with which our Port had a major difficulty. Diana knew this already as two of her producers are from the same region, yet their products are completely different in taste. One, she says, is always sold-out in advance and is something she can eat, eat, and eat even more. The other she enjoys in just small portions, as do her customers. By law, DOP-classified cheese must be produced using traditional ingredients and methods. Despite this, the classification has neither influence on quality, nor on Diana`s choice. It was hence unsurprising, that our winner was not a PDO.
AND THE WINNER IS......
…. from the Azores, Sao Miquel Cura Especial Queijo Ilha Velho !
Produced on the picturesque island of São Miguel, this cured Island Cheese is semi-hard and of a firm texture. A minimum maturation period of 9 months is obligatory, but in this case has been extended to 18 months. Known by many as the "black rind cheese" it has a strong but not overpowering flavour. Made from pasteurized cow's milk, this cheese is buttery, it literally melts in your mouth with an earthy – almost chunky full-bodied mouthfeel.
The unparalleled flavours are superb for snacks, salads, in pasta or as a gratin topping but for us, São Miguel, is the ideal accompaniment to O-PORT-UNIDADE 2023. It neither fights the Port - as Ronni said, nor does it fire the alcohol. Instead, both products blend in perfect balance.
Congratulations too, to Francisca van Zeller from Van Zellers & Co for being the only Producer who nailed it!
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED
The full list of cheeses tasted is here, as are Diana`s complete details at the bottom of the page.
Congratulations to the Azores and our heartfelt thanks to Diana Guedes and Rui, also to Verónica for such amazing support. No less thanks go to my wonderful friend and Photographer, Ronni Allen who accompanyied me on my journey and produced such beautiful imagery.
Praça do Marquês de Pombal, 102
4000-390 Porto
Portugal
Tel: +351 225 400 405
E-Mail: geral@queijariadapraca.pt
Opening times:
Mon to Wed 14:30 – 19:30
Thu to Sat 11:00 – 13:00 | 14:30 – 20:00
Sunday Closed
