RIBERA DEL DUERO – RUTA DEL VINO
- info2294206
- vor 5 Tagen
- 8 Min. Lesezeit
SPAIN
CHIMNEYS, CHOCOLATE & CHULETILLAS
In Ribera del Duero, wine-making roots reach back as far as they delve deep. One sure sign of the centuries-old viticultural history are chimneys – or Zarceras – which pop up out of the hillside willy nilly and for no apparent reason.
A handful of such chimneys you`ll see at the foot of the castle in Peñafiel. These Zarceras are an indication of hand-dug underground cellars once erected for the maturation and storage of wine, some of which are still in use today.
The chimneys act as natural air-conditioning to the deep underground tunnel-system and are vital for ventilation. The tunnel-network below Bodegas Protos, which was restored in the 70`s, is no less than two kilometres in length.
Following modernisation in 2008, the underground cellars are now linked to a new facility and one which has the capacity of processing over a million kilos of grapes. Probably the region`s most important establishment, Protos’ first successful vintages date back to 1927 and 1928, when a collaboration of 11 local winegrowing visionaries won Gold at the 1929 World Fair in Barcelona.
Much water has since passed under the bridge - or rather wine through the cellars - and in 2024, the prestigious Magazine - Drinks International, named Bodegas Protos as one of the world’s TOP 50 MOST ADMIRED WINE BRANDS.
Greeted by Marketing Manager Sheila Escudero, our tour began with a fascinating and original audio- visual interpretation of the Bodega`s history, before we entered the kilometre-long cellars. Despite a constant temperature of around 14-16˚C, an optimal atmospheric and humidity balance, it soon became obvious how crucial those ventilating chimneys must be.
The production level at Bodegas Protos lies both above and in part, below the surface. The new construction erected in 2008, accommodates further fermentation and storage vats as well as the bottling plant. This contemporary Architectural Masterpiece, designed by award-winning architect Richard Rogers, integrates natural materials such as wood and terracotta with glass and steel. The five south facing and impressive bays are roofed with reddish-brown terracotta panels, allowing for ideal aeration. They also present a picture-postcard view of the castle above.
Lunchtime, and a pairing menu par excellence completed our visit to Bodegas Protos, put together by chef Javier Sánchez Macareno and his team of professionals.
The ÁGORA DE PROTOS Restaurant and Wine-Bar is housed on the grounds of the original winery and just a short walk from today`s Bodega. This is a restaurant I highly recommend you visit - the atmosphere is relaxed, the staff courteous and attentive, the food – out of this world!
On the Wine side, our menu included not only reds from Ribera, but also white and rosé wine from the nearby Rueda and Cigales regions, kicking off with Protos Aire 2024 D.O. Cigales. A refreshing blend of red and white grapes including Tempranillo, Garnacha, Albillo, Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc, which paired exceptionally well with the first set of courses. These included:
- Sardine on chilled tomato and red pepper soup with a hint of garlic and fresh cress topping.
- Pork-based spicy Black Pudding with rice and cumin.
- Traditional Croquettes stuffed with Iberian ham and a bechamel sauce made from sheep's milk.
The second wine, introduced during the first course(s): Protos Verdejo Reserva 2020 – 100 % Verdejo - the Queen of Rueda with a beautiful deep golden yellow in the glass, an aromatic and long finish due to lengthy fermentation and maturation on the lees, also aging in both oak casks and in the bottle.
This was followed by aubergine topped with toasted almonds, stuffed red peppers, traditional lamb which had been roasted in the wood-fired oven, and smoky Chuletillas de Lechazo (lamb chops grilled over hot coals) served with PROTOS'27 2021. 100 % Tempranillo and 100% blackberry, blackcurrant, roasted coffee beans, baked red fruit, vanilla, hot-spice, black pepper, smooth tannins and an enjoyable velvety mouthfeel – right up my street.
The chocolate and pistachio based desserts which followed, were both beautifully presented and absolutely delicious!
This wasn`t the first time I had eaten lamb, and it wouldn`t be the last during my stay in Peñafiel. The small town has much to offer in the way of good food, so here are three more recommendations I suggest you check out when there, particularly if staying at the AH Pesquera Hotel.
Taberna la Perla is situated in the Hotel on the ground floor and just off to the right of the main entrance. From the outside, the restaurant appears relatively unimpressive, but appearances can be deceiving. This simple little establishment not only has friendly staff, but obviously an excellent chef in the kitchen. The wine-list is extensive too and pricewise, all very affordable.
Here we were served a selection of Tapas to Share, including baked cod with ratatouille and Algae cream, the Spanish version of Russian Eggs (of which I could happily have eaten more), lamb-kebabs served on salad and chocolate brownies for pud (which soon became obligatory at every location). The meal was washed down with at least one bottle of winemaker Alejandro Fernandez`s Tinta Pesquera Crianza 2020.
ORIGEN-ES is the Hotel`s posh dining facility where tasteful fixtures and fittings (also wine-laden walls) add to the all-over and enjoyable experience.
Here, you have the choice of both à la Carte as well as a Tasting Menu, which changes depending on the season and the availability of local products.
Chef David Pérez Ruiz, although a bit of a fish-fan himself, doesn`t just stick to personal preference when it comes to producing culinary delights for his guests, as we found out. I chose the smoked red shrimp on quinoa risotto and marine plankton, which filled the last remaining hole I had available, after three days of chomping my way en-route.
Asador Molino de Palacios is Peñafiel`s specialist for the region`s most traditional of dishes: roasted suckling lamb or Lechazo. The homely family run restaurant is sited within the ancient water mill dating back to the 16th century. The Mill bridges the river in the centre of town, and when acquired by the Bocos Arevalo family back in 1995, it was practically a ruin.
Sisters Noemi and Emilia run the premises today, upholding both tradition and their father`s legacy, who unfortunately died just one month after they opened. Noemi and Emilia offer nothing less than a warm welcome and very good food.
The restaurant has real character too and you`ll be treated as if you`ve been a regular there for years. The seating area is similar to an Aladdin`s Cave full of local specialities, old farming equipment, garlic, garlic, and more garlic. The ancient millstone is still on site, serving today as a home-made and marinated goodies display.
Although no longer a working mill, the river which gushes below your feet, is visible through the partly glass flooring. The heart of the restaurant though, is most definitely the wood-fired oven. This has capacity for up to 15 whole lambs per day, the equivalent of about 52 portions of Lechazo and roasted for approximately 3 hours. A popular location, so remember to order in advance and apart from that, they also do tasty homemade desserts 😉
Another Ribera del Duero species bred solely for tradition, is the Bull. In Peñafiel, customs have been upheld for centuries with Bullfighting no exception. The Plaza del Coso is the main Arena for this tradition and a fine example of medieval architecture.
Officially declared a Site of Cultural Interest in 1999, the Plaza has just two entrances: one to the North and one to the West, so check these out first on arrival. Once in, it might be a good idea to know how to get out…
The whole complex is made up of 48 two- and three-story buildings constructed of wood and stone. The balconies, which don`t necessarily belong to the homeowners themselves, can be rented at an exorbitant price to all wishing to witness the yearly “spectacle”.
The Fiestas de Nuestra Señora y San Roque is a centuries-old tradition, takes place every year from the 14th to 18th August and is a weekend you should avoid if you don`t like crowds. The festivities engross the whole town with visitors coming from far and wide. The stampede through the streets is officially declared open with the “Chupinazo” blast and if you wish to “take part” yourself, make sure you plan months in advance and are well insured. The bulls, bred especially for the occasion, are carefully chosen and first chased through the streets before entering the arena, where the actual “fight” commences.
Last but most definitely not least, after all the food and festivities I`m sure you`re gagging for another drink.
FRIARS & CLERGYMEN
Finca Villa Creces and Bodegas Matarromera are both situated just a stone´s throw from Peñafiel. If you haven`t yet explored the flatlands on two wheels, then this is the best time to do so, and if you don`t have your own bicycles with you, then the staff at Villa Creces will kit you out!
The winery, not visible from the main road, is located within beautiful scenic pine-tree woodlands, an awful lot of vineyards and in direct vicinity to the Duero River. Here, time stands still and here, you`ll be able to catch your breath. We only spent a short time at the Finca, but one which served as a breath of fresh air, recuperation and was very enjoyable.
Our Wine-Tasting followed a bike ride through the vineyards amongst the shade of the naturally wooded landscape. Tourism-Guide Elsa Moroto, who accompanied us during the whole tour, provided an interesting and detailed insight to the premises, its history, the importance of geology, their grape varieties and most importantly, quenched our thirst before departure.
The Estate`s history dates as far back as the 14th century, when a Franciscan friar and his clergymen not only spent much time praying, but were also highly committed to winemaking. Thank goodness is all I can say. Award-winning wines based on years of practical experience and a deep appreciation for Terroir, the result.
According to Robert Parker, the best Spanish wine in history and under $20 comes from Finca Villa Creces. Pruno for example, a beautiful blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and just a touch of Merlot. Check it out!
All varieties thrive extremely well on the diverse yet challenging geological conditions, and at Finca Villa Creces they have one decisive advantage: this is one of the few estates which since the beginning of the 19th century, was granted irrigation rights under the rule of Alfonso XIII. Still today, they are officially allowed to use the Duero River as a source of irrigation. Since 2007, the Finca has opened its doors to Wine-Tourism, now boasting a to 90% organically farmed Estate with a total of 275 Hectares. A short, yet memorable visit - and many thanks to Elsa!
TEA-TIME!
At Bodegas Matarromera, our host José was not only confident, but also an outstanding Wine-Guide. Why, you wonder? Through simple comparisons, he successfully conveyed even the most complicated of wine-making techniques and to the least knowledgeable of guests. José`s storytelling talents were entertaining, his charismatic charm infectious and his enthusiasm refreshing.
Ever wondered how wine turns red or the tannins get into the bottle? Well next time you have a good old cuppa` tea - british of course - consider said question whilst steeping your tea-bag. The longer you leave it, the stronger it becomes. You see, wine-making is easy if you only know how..
The Carlos Moro family have grown grapes on the Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile for decades and in 1988, Carlos decided to dedicate his life mainly to Viticulture. Born in Valladolid in 1953, Carlos is a passionate viticulturist, oenologist, and winemaker, a Spanish entrepreneur who has since received much recognition and many awards for his work. Passion at Matarromera, is order of the day it seems.
Our Winery tour at Bodegas Matarromera was not only entertaining, it was extremely informative and in keeping with the whole trip, naturally ended in their Tasting-Room.
Our Tasting with José included:
Matarromera Verdejo - 100% Verdejo barrel-fermented, golden yellow, fresh tropical pineapple, well balanced smooth acidity– batonnage on lees, creamy complex finish.
Matarromera Reserva – 100% Tempranillo, one year in oak followed by 2 years maturation in the bottle, deep garnet red, ripe red berry-fruits, blackberry, oak, vanilla, soft tannins, long fresh yet powerfully lingering finish.
Matarromera Prestigio – a deep ruby-red, tears, persistent, spicy, smoky, mineral freshness, ripe red-fruits and high but well-balanced acidity. A true work of Art.
I would like to take this opportunity of thanking all individuals involved in my visit to Ribera del Duero in Spain.
In particular:
Alejandro at https://agenciakdv.es/ for the organisation and Loreto Esteban Guijarro, our local guide.
Fotocredits: Gail Treuer
For further information and assistance, please contact the official Ribera del Duero - Ruta del Vino Homepage under:
They look forward to hearing from you!
April 2025
