EQUILIBRIUM
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- 15 hours ago
- 10 min read
Updated: 29 minutes ago
Álvaro Martinho Lopes
Whilst working on this piece, I am not sure who faced the bigger challenge: myself with the use of words, or Ronni Allen - responsible for capturing our special encounter on camera. One minute Álvaro Martinho Lopes is in the frame, the next, he`s bouncing off rocks.
Born and bred in Covas do Douro, Álvaro grew up in a large family with five brothers and one sister. At an early age, he developed a special relationship to nature - to plants in particular but felt no initial ambition to become a winemaker. Álvaro `s childhood dream was to study agronomy, inspired by his birthplace: the Douro Valley.
Today, Álvaro has long since achieved that goal. At Quinta das Carvelhas where he has worked since 1997, his role was and still is crucial in transforming the estate`s vineyard area. In turn, the face of the wines. At the beginning of his career, Álvaro received the opportunity to travel. Equipped with a heart and soul born of the Douro, also perhaps – a little childish naivety - he journeyed to Spain, to Italy, Germany, and Switzerland. Instead of returning inspired, he arrived home discouraged. Overwhelmed with sadness, he suddenly saw his homeland through different eyes. Gone - was the vibrancy – in its place – grey in grey accompanied by a hostile and misogynistic society.
DIABOLIC
The Douro Valley is a region of extremes, yet brings forth great wines of outstanding longevity. The plant-life flourishes on generally steep slopes with the geography playing a pivotal role. Grapes grow at a variety of altitudes with varyling levels of sun exposure, and the climate is often described as diabolic. The soil here is practically non-existent, with just a thin layer of organic matter on hard Schist bedrock. Long, often blisteringly hot (40 °C+) and dry summers - weeks on end without rainfall - and harsh cold winters, aren`t exactly comfortable conditions. The vegetation and the vines however, tell a different story.
In Álvaro`s opinion, temperatures have certainly increased over the past few years, yet rainfall he says, has remained pretty much the same. Evidence does suggest that Portugal has always experienced periods of drought, also of flooding based on data from as far back as the 18th century. The weather – a constantly changing microclimate depending location - is not the only significant influence. Viticultural success of the region depends on sufficient understanding of the environment and one which already exists in Equilibrium. In order to comprehend and appreciate, one must look further than the textbooks, and in his role as Agronomist, this is exactly what Álvaro Martinho Lopes has done.
Enjoying the trust and respect of CEO Pedro Silva Reis, over the past two decades Álvaro has mapped out the estates plant life in detail, analysed topography and exposition – the complete terrain of each individual vineyard parcel. He has produced valuable data - also for future generations - and come to an important conclusion: the vegetation in the Douro Valley has not simply adapted to its environment. More so, it has developed a unique STRATEGY whereby the TIMELINE plays a decisive role. Álvaro has identified over one thousand plant species including vegetables and wild herbs. The estate alone boasts more than 25.000 olive trees, existing with little or no intervention. In the Alto Douro, some olive trees are said to be over 3000 years of age, so it would appear, natures strategy is paying off.
DOURO - DECODED
Our visit took us to the core of the Estate – the vineyards and amid a 97-year-old collection of vines, Álvaro highlighted some of the mistakes made in the past. This is a region supporting 125 or more native varieties – each with its own genetic coding passed on, from one vintage to the next. Under economic pressure to produce quantity over quality, many old vines have unfortunately been removed. Of Quinta das Carvalhas approximate 350 hectares, 140 hectares are dedicated solely to viticulture and of these, just 30% are true Vinhas Velhas – old vines.
Most of Carvalhas`vineyards fall under classification A – the highest and esessential for Port Wine production in accordance with Douro & Port Wine Institute (IDVP) regulations. The Quinta has been making Port Wines of excellence for over three hundred years and during the past thirty, they have introduced a classification of their own. This pinpoints sites producing exceptional quality over a prolonged period of time. These Grand-Cru vineyards include Costa da Barca and Cartola, as seen below.
STRATEGY
Equipped with extensive knowledge and supported by a handful of colleagues - also CEO Pedro Silva Reis, Álvaro began developing a strategy to transform the estate. Slowly but surely by unlocking - as do the vines - all available resources, that grey disappeared. In its place spread a lush and vibrant green.
On returning home from his travels, Álvaro witnessed a valley in shades of greyish-brown and one still cemented in the 19th century. Agricultural methods hadn`t changed in decades, nor the mentality. Women, like second-class citizens, were only employed by producers at harvest-time, not for pruning and for a pittance of a wage. In 2002, Quinta das Carvalhas became the first company to approach the situation. They invested – with improved conditions for the whole workforce - in people. Inclusion, wage equality, training, and revised standards throughout have paid off and today, almost 50% of the Team are female.
PIONEERS & PADDY FIELDS
Modern viticultural techniques, an organic approach where possible and preservation of the existing biodiversity are high on the list of importance. Crucial too, the recovery of rare indigenous grape varieties such as Tinta Francisca, Rufete, and Malvasia Preta. These were at risk of extinction. The price paid for using machinery was a reduction in plant density, resulting in loss of yield. This proven mistake led to a rethink. In 2014, Álvaro - inspired by precision planting of the rice terraces in Cambodia - created steeper terraces and increased gradients by 25%. Risky business yet despite single row planting, he doubled the number of vines.
Now supported by compact grass banks instead of old stone walls, the natural vineyard habitat flourished, reducing at the same time, the problem of erosion. The necessary grass-cutting equipment was available but too big for purpose. Following an enquiry for the production of a smaller machine, all Álvaro received was ridicule: “Álvaro, we don`t make toys for boys.”
Ten years on, the toys work, the vineyards are immaculate. Row upon row of precision planting, lending layer upon layer of complexity to the wines. For Álvaro, there are only two types of conditions: either steep or flat. Black or white. Also - just three categories of wine: Good, better and Douro. Álvaro is an excellent storyteller, a visual artist, not just a charming entertainer. His Quality-Pyramid is well-known among visitors lucky enough to experience a vineyard tour, delivered with a passionate and powerful message. The steeper slopes of the Douro Valley require an average of six hundred hours hard labour to produce just four tons of grapes. Newly planted not yet established slopes, even less. The flatter vineyards on the other hand, require just one hundred hours of labour for perhaps ten, twelve - even fifteen tons of grapes.
Translated - the base of Álvaro`s pyramid represents good wines, but en-masse. The pyramid middle, those achieving the same high-quality year upon year. Nevertheless, these remain purely products - as are his favourite beige shorts – of which he apparently has quite a collection. The best wines though, are just a small percentage at the tip of the pyramid. These wines, the Douro included, are distinct blueprints of their origin. Wines of the Douro Valley do not represent the masses. Both Douro DOC and Port-Wines are not simply products. They are witness to both past and present, with the potential to withstand the test of TIME. The first reference to Quinta das Carvalhas dates back to 1759. May their pioneer work continue, in paving the way and inspiring future generations.
BIG SPENDER
As if Álvaro doesn`t have enough on his plate, he also produces his own wines. Mafarrico - that little devil…available in both red and white, also for scrutiny at the annual Simplismente in Porto. In addition to wine, he boasts a thriving allotment with enough vegetables – particularly green cabbage and tomatoes – to feed the fleet of the Armada, producing at the same time, dangerously high levels of CO2.
Álvaro `s talents don`t end at green fingers – they are musical too and together with his bubbling personality, he`s a sought after and welcome guest at many events. In my opinion (I had to get that one in Ronni), no one comprehends and in such depth, the social, economic and climatic factors – the true TIMELINE - for the success of wine production in the Douro Valley - as Álvaro Martinho Lopes does. His perception - a combination of pride and of pleasure, of sound proficiency in his field and one of high commitment.
ENDURANCE
Dear Álvaro,
with your own genetic codex, one which recognises and respects the region`s ancestory and abundance of resources, you are an inspiration - of which you should be proud. May your inquisitive mind, your sometimes provocative manner motivate others. On leaving Quinta das Carvalhas, both Ronni and I were truly uplifted. Your aspirations and inspiring presence sew new seeds. In doing so, you are raising both awareness and the respect your region deserves. An origin bringing forth wines of magnificent expression. We are convinced; your children and your children`s children will inherit this gift. Like Father, like Son. It was an honour to spend time together and we already look forward to a sequel. Thank you so very much for your precious time, also the touching and personal concert.
Gail & Ronni
So, now I`ve gotten rid of my hanky, a visit to Quinta das Carvalhas would not have been complete without a tasting. With Álvaro`s guidance, we travelled from northern to southern slopes, over a bed of wild herbs and schist. We tasted places, diversity and the true flavour of Alto Douro.
From right to left:
▪ Quinta das Carvalhas Branco 2024 – born of an ambitious project in 2010, these Viosinho and Gouveio vines grow on one of the highest points of the estate, where cooling breezes and altitude (450m) retain the freshness of both varieties. Aged for eight months in used barrels of 550L, micro-oxidation refines rather than overpowers the stone-fruit flavours of apricot, white peach, and a subtle floral bouquet. This is a terrific pairing wine and went well with our rather generous platter.
▪ Quinta de Cidrô Gouveio 2024 – this estate, located in São João da Pesqueira, was bought by Real Companhia Velha in 1973 and is regarded one of the Douro Valley`s "model farm"s. Here at high altitude, they experiment with both red and white indigenous varieties.
Among them, Gouveio – which excels with a delicately floral nose. A fresh acidic wine on the palate, citrus fruits, wild herbs, and minerals with a hint of eucalyptus.
▪ Quinta das Carvalhas Tinta Francisca 2024 – a late ripening, low-yield noble vine producing aromatic wines low in acidity. Red plum and cherry on nose and palate – grown on north and westerly facing slopes, quite untypical in character for a Douro DOC. It`s a Limited Edition of just two thousand bottles, so get your skates on...
▪ Quinta das Carvalhas Vinha do Eirol 2022 – a special year and a special wine harvested from over 95-year-old vines on a westerly facing Grand Cru site. Vinha do Eirol lies high up in the hills (380 m) near Casa Rodonda (The Round House). The grapes are selected by hand, skin-contact-fermentation in French oak, Malo and maturation in small barrels lend to this expressive yet fresh and (unusually) light-garnet-coloured wine, full of character.
▪ Quinta das Carvalhas Vinhas Velhas 2021: a complex full bodied field blend, harvested from the Grand Cru vineyards — Cartola, Costa da Barca and Raposeira.
Aged for 8 months in French oak, the firm tannins softened and accompanied by a mouthful of ripe red- and forest fruits.
Soft spice, slightly jammy but with second to none elegance. A fascinating, masterpiece of a wine, born of ancient over 100-year-old vines whose survival genes have stood the test of TIME.
▪ ▪ Quinta Das Carvalhas 2007 Vintage Port – The 2007 Vintage seems to have been a good one across the board. The weather was changeable, but higher rainfall than usual in winter topped up natural water table levels. Cooler nights during the growing season, also shortly before harvest retained acidity and the harvest was of exceptional quality. In the glass, a deep saturated purple. On the nose and palate: rich in blackberry, blueberry and dark plum, also stewed fruit (I hate the term jammy). This is Vintage Port with a beautifully soft and velvety mouthfeel, also wonderful length. Years of aging potential.
▪ ▪ Quinta Das Carvalhas 50-Year-Old Tawny Port – is a fabulous blend of old Port Wines aged in the Real Companhia Velha cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia. The composition; 1967 and 1978 Colheitas and just 10% of their 1927 Colheita Port. Deep amber and subtle red hues literally coat the glass. Mixed spice, cedar wood, caramel, walnut, toffee, coffee beans, dried fruits, and vanilla – crumbs, I could go on and on. as does the finish.
The wines of the Douro Valley have their own individual FORMULA – one of the Past, the Present and - the Future. For the unlikely possibility that you don`t find YOUR WINE immediately, then Quinta das Carvalhas produce on average, around eight thousand litres of Olive oil annually – and this year (2025) promises to be a blast!
FOOTNOTE:
HOW (tf) DARE SHE!
In 2009, Jancis Robinson wrote – and I quote:
“Less than 10 years ago (like 1999) this (the Douro) was the most obviously backward of the world's classic wine regions, with grapes still trodden by the feet of locals whose lives seemed to have more in common with the third world than with Europe.”
With grapes still trodden by the feet of locals? Jancis, are you serious? I do apologise but - this statement resonates with me about as much as a wet ferret would, on my cashmere pillow. In case you hadn`t noticed Jancis, this is one of the many reasons why Douro wines are so unique...
So who`s going to tell her - you or me?
For more information:
Quinta das Carvalhas
Portugal
Tel.: +351 254 738 050
E-Mail: carvalhas@realcompanhiavelha.pt
For Wine Tourism enquiries – whereby we recommend you do AT LEAST The Vintage Tour:
Foto credits: Ronni Allen food photography & Gail Treuer
PS: I don`t have a cashmere pillow - I think it`s polyester!