THE VINE HOUSE
- info2294206
- 5 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 4 days ago
Quinta São Luiz
Tabuaço, Portugal
Of the many Quintas in the Douro Valley, The Vine House at Kopke`s Quinta São Luiz is one of the few which has accommodation and is near the riverbank. Located on the left bank of the Douro between Régua and Pinhão and just one-and-a-half-hours from the city of Porto, The Vine House is an ideal base for exploration.
Quinta São Luiz, to which Quinta da Mesquita, Quinta da Lobata, Quinta da Alegria and Quinta da Galeira belong, works a total of 125 hectares, ninety-four of which are dedicated solely to viticulture. Kopke, recognised officially in 1940 as Portugal`s oldest Port Wine House, has been in the business since 1638 producing today, around 9.5 million bottles a year. The altitude of the vineyards enables a variety of wine styles, variying from 77 metres to 446 metres. The main (indigenous) grape varieties include Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Cão, also small parcels of Tinta Barroca and Souzão.
C.N. Kopke bought Quinta São Luiz in 1922. Recently re-branded, The Kopke Group as they are now known make an (under)-statement on their Homepage: “Once, we were just wine. Now, we are wine tourism.” - and they most certainly are. The Kopke Legacy is as deep-rooted as the vines and the result of upholding tradition - also of hard graft. Rows of white-washed stone walls bear witness to the past, repainted year after year in recognition of the tireless farmhands who once erected them.
RIVER VIEWS
As a guest, either in-house or as a visitor, Kopke, The Vine House and their Team are ready and waiting. Whether you are looking for a Winery- or Vineyard-Tour, a Tasting or better still, all three, the well-trained staff are certain to look after you. Should you be lucky enough to stay the night, The Vine House boasts a limited number of rooms in which to relax.
They are light and airy, immaculately clean, and well-equipped with Minibar, Coffee-machine, Kettle, hairdryer and of course all en-suite with a fair-sized shower. Each room enjoys fabulous views over the river with either a balcony, or a generously sized terrace overlooking Quinta de São Luiz` oldest vineyard - Vinha Rumilã.
This wasn`t my first stay, which speaks for itself. Since my previous visit, there is now an infinity pool just a stone`s throw from the edge of the Douro River. Weather permitting, you`ll enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the terrace where particularly at sunset, the panorama is breathtaking. Breakfast is simple but fresh and of excellent quality.
The recently opened restaurant bears Vítor de Oliveira`s signature – an experienced Chef whose concept represents tradition, flavours - an authentic reflection of the surrounding territory.
You can check out the restaurant menu here. We chose a variety of dishes the evening we stayed and should you be visiting as a group, the Team will bend over backwards to produce something tailor made.
MACKEREL TARTARE FROM THE COAST
Red Onion, São Luiz Rosemary, Cucumber in Chardonnay Vinegar and Rice Crunch
SPICY SARDINE FILET
Sardine Loins, Corn Bread, Roasted Pepper Mousse, Red Onion
BOAR IN AN IRON POT (admittedly, we missed the pot..)
Boar Leg, Crushed Potatoes and São Luiz Vegetables
LEITE CRÈME
Portuguese Crème Brûlée with Orange Leaf Infusion
We enjoyed two white wines with dinner. Why white, you ask? To be fair, we`d only just finished our Port Wine tasting and were in serious need of a palate reset. I chose two wines to go with the meal:
▪ São Luiz Douro DOC Branco 2022 Sublinhado, from Kopke`s Winemakers Collection - 100% Rufete
▪ Burmeister Casa Douro Reserva 2023, a blend of Gouveio, Rabigato and Viosinho.
The Rufette offers (subtle) red-fruit aromas, accompanied by a medium bodied profile. The Reserva - a more elegant wine with fresh acidity, of good length and my personal favourite.
For the Wine and Port Wine geeks out there, Quinta São Luiz is a great place for both increasing knowledge and educating your palate. I highly recommend you take the full Tour when visiting - of both the vineyards and the cellar and also taste at least four styles of Port Wine. It`s only by doing so, that you`ll grasp the complexity and true craftsmanship involved in making fortified wines. It`s also helpful to already understand the principles of wine making.
PORT WINE - AN ARTIST`S PALETTE
Vasco, our Tour Guide, explained with a prominent level of confidence, methods of Wine and Port Wine production highlighting too, the risks and pitfalls producers face. These include the difficulty of financial forecasting and projection. Wine is a natural product – the maturation process, aging and outcome not laid in stone. Quality can vary from vintage to vintage, also styles from cask to cask.
Quinta São Luiz is where the wines are initially aged. Outside, the huge white concrete domes hold up to 100.000 litres of wine - one of which even serves as a Wine-Bar. Most impressive though, the wooden Balseiros, which look like barrels with their bottoms chopped off. These hold anything between 50.000 and 120.000 litres and must be kept full to avoid (unwanted) oxidation. Some of the barrels at São Luiz are over one hundred years of age and built on site with no plans to date, to replace them. The Pipas are the classic aging size with around 500-550 litres capacity, but you`ll also find smaller casks known as Hogshead. These play a key role in crafting the style of a Tawny.
By law, Ruby Ports are aged for a maximum of six years, anything older must be declared a Tawny. However, the winemaker still hasn`t got his seal of approval, issued by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto`s (IDVP) and vital for sales. Colheitas (from one single harvest/vintage) must be aged for a minimum of 7 years, although at Kopke they are generally 10 years+. For those unfamiliar with the various styles - 10, 20, 30 or 40-year-old Tawny`s are a not only a blend of ports. The age indication is the average age of whats actually in the bottle. This means - a percentage of the wine may be younger, or even older than that stated on the label. Vintage Ports are normally bottled within two to three years of harvest and are the only style of Port profiting from bottle - not cask-maturation.
With all this in mind and presuming you`ve followed me so far, here`s what we tasted, accompanied by nuts and crackers (from left to right) - and just look at those colours!
▪ SÃO LUIZ RESERVA WHITE 2023 Douro DOC made with three varieties: A blend Viosinho, Arinto and Folgazão. Lemony yellow in the glass, a crisp dry white vinified partly in stainless steel and partly in oak. A combination of fresh exotic fruit and subtle toasted oaky notes with rigid acidity.
▪ KOPKE FINE WHITE dry style, light gold in colour, exotic fruits, peach, lime, well balanced acidity.
▪ KOPKE 10-YEAR-OLD WHITE an elegant, complex 10-year blend, deep amber in the glass, caramel, honey, cinnamon, aged in small barrels. Lengthy finish.
Above, from right to left!
▪ KOPKE LBV 2020 Intense ruby-red in colour, sweet fresh red- and black fruit, a little jammy, full-bodied, smooth persistent finish.
▪ KOPKE 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY Brick-red with a darker rim. Complex character, silky smooth, dried fruits, nutty, allspice, caramel, hint of oak and my personal favourite.
A simple rule of thumb: the more ruby-red the Port, the younger and fruitier the wine (with the exception of older Vintage Ports). The deeper the colour - shades of amber or brick-red - the older the wine and smaller the barrel in which it was aged. But do remember, I`m not an expert and there are always exceptions to the rule!
As you see, Port Wine Production is a complex affair but Kopke`s Quinta São Luiz and The Vine House are the ideal location in which to immerse yourself.
And as I am not yet an expert, I have genuine reason to return! Many thanks to the whole team, for looking after us so well.
Quinta de São Luiz – The Vine House
Estrada Nacional 222
Adorigo 5120-012
Tabuaço
Portugal
Tel.:+351 913 984 201
Foto Credits: @ronniallenphotography, Gail, Kopke
