Being British, you may presume that I have no genetic programming whatsoever which could qualify me to make even one "wine comment", let alone rate a wine whatever its origin. This is principally correct: however, I would like to remind you before I get going, that at least 3 of the World's Top Wine Critics come from the UK.
Having always dreamt of a home by the sea, I stumbled over a beautiful picture on Instagram and as you do whilst working hard in the office, I consciously unconsciously clicked on the "like" button. Almost immediately I received a personal message from the image's source. A gentleman going by the name of Mr. Mário Vidal from SurfWineTours, himself based in Portugal. Little did I know at the time, this was to lead to my recent Portuguese Experience and would hence be the start of an unexpected Love Affair.
The initial contact was back in 2020 shortly before the world was "locked down". Mr. Vidal was friendly, polite and enthusiastic. I, however, not in a situation to travel. Three years on I happened to check out the SurfWineTours website again and purely out of interest.
Part 1
Not wanting to pick up on that blond cliché being one myself, but the booking procedure with SurfWineTours is indeed very simple. No thinking-cap needed, whether you have one or not. I said, "Mr. Vidal, I love the sea and must go to the coast, but I want to come home with all bones intact (consider my age), so I am happy to leave out the Surfing bit this time." Being a certified German Wine Ambassador and Regional-Tour-Guide here in Germany and in the process of following new and exciting career possibilities, I was mainly interested in getting to know as much as possible about the World of Portuguese Wines. Being British also meant that I am more than simply acquainted with a good Port, so that too, was obviously on my Portuguese Bucket List.
Enough said, dates confirmed, flights booked, I was on my way. I put 100% trust in my Tour Organiser, which turned out to be one of the best decisions I have made for a very long time.
Arrival in Portugal
I opted for a flight into Oporto a day early but arriving late evening, as Mr. Vidal's suggested Itinerary was to start the following day at the ungodly hour of 9 am, so it seemed a good idea to get a full night's sleep in advance. Please note, I am over 35 and no longer the springiest of chickens. Mr. Vidal kindly arranged a lovely little Hotel not too far from Oporto centre for me for that "extra" night, also transport from the airport. Pick-Up arrangements for the following morning were agreed on and despite my late arrival, I started exploring immediately.
Oporto
The good thing about travelling SurfWineTours style, is that you are literally driven from pillar to post by means of an air-conditioned vehicle and a very accommodating chauffeur. The first thing on the menu today was breakfast. For all Portugal-Lovers out there, I needn't say what this entailed. Pastéis de Nata and a good strong cup of coffee were to set me up for a day's walking, enjoyed in a small establishment on one of the main streets - please don't ask me the name. For the record, I don't write everything down and am not good at names (nor birthdays for that matter), I prefer to look, observe, inhale and taste, get the feel and smell of the atmosphere, snapping a few pics to jog my memory on the way, rather than make endless notes.
Having already admired the handcrafted elaborately tiled buildings of Oporto in books, ceramics of every shape and size, in all possible colours of the rainbow, most striking – the azure blue, I was now seeing them for real.
Not being a public transport sort of person and certainly not expecting to be catching a train that day, I was rather surprised when my guide said we'd just take a quick detour to the nearby station. The São Bento Train Station, situated near the centre and just a stone's throw from Avenida dos Aliados, apparently a popular meeting spot for locals, is considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. It certainly tells a story or two & most definitely puts the Bingen am Rhine Hauptbahnhof to shame.
A short climb was necessary for a rooftop view overlooking the city. The skyline - a mix of Old meets New, majestic, historical & ancient architecture versus modern-day office buildings and sky-high towers. From the Ribeira District of Oporto's old town, we made our way down and along the riverside to the impressive Ponte de Dom Luis I Bridge.
A double deck metal-arched construction designed by Gustave Eiffel, completed in 1886 and at the time, the longest iron-arch in the world. Crossing the Douro River the bridge led us from Oporto, accompanied by a very welcome and refreshing breeze at 36 degrees in the shade, to the wine-making district of Vila Nova de Gaia. Bobbing lazily on the waters below and today with no apparent use or destination other than for tourist purposes, you will see the once for the Port Wine Industry indispensable Rabelo Boots, used to transport the barrels of Port from their origins to the cellars of Oporto for maturation, storage, and export.
At last, it was time for a break and as if my guide had read my thirsty thoughts, we made our way to the World of Wine, WOW for short. This is a recent development located in a number of renovated and centuries old Port-Wine-Cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia, where there is lots to see and do. An Homage if you like, to the regions Wine- & Port Industry and to its' traditions. My first Portuguese wine, enjoyed on the WOW's open-air restaurant terrace, surprisingly empty despite spectacular views of the city and the bridge just crossed, was a creation of winemaker Mr. Jose Miguel Almeida (CVD-Companhia de Vinhos do Douro Lda., Quinta do Cabeço).
Admittedly a beginner on the Portuguese Wine Scene and not aware that many wines of Portugal are Cuvées, perhaps the reason for my disappointment in my own disability of pinpointing what I was tasting: Oboé Superior Branco 2021, a Cuvée of three different Portuguese grape varieties: Malvasia Fina, Viosinho and the not so common Rabigato. This wine, having had a small taste, was neither immediate music to my ears as the name implied, nor melodic on my palate. It reminded me of an extremely mineralic German Riesling, characteristically acidic and with the familiar peach, pear and quince aromas of such, but one which had also spent a fair amount of time chatting to an oak barrel in perhaps French or American English. So, I quenched my thirst with water to start with and having been allowed a little air to breathe, (not me, the wine) it became enjoyable, my palate relaxed, as did my vision.
A short stroll later with only a little more exploration possible as it was time to find the car which, following that bottle of wine, was a challenging thought. However, what had I said initially?
Exactly. I didn't have a guide for nothing and had absolutely no reason to stress, this wasn't my problem. Having said that, what was my problem was my underestimation of the distance and my falsely chosen "walking shoes". The car, parked in the morning "somewhere in Oporto" on a very steep slope and if my memory didn't fail me, in front of a heaving pile of garbage, was thankfully still there where we'd left it. Handbrake in order, the rubbish collected and my luggage still in the boot. This is a point I'll briefly make to all fellow visitors of Portugal, without wanting to get anyone worried, as I certainly wasn't. Apparently, it is not uncommon for personal belongings to disappear in Portuguese towns, particularly when left in a car-boot, but I'd say that's the same the world over. If I had been lucky enough to have my baggage "borrowed", at least I could have claimed on the (recommended) insurance and got myself some new items for my wardrobe. They would have come in handy at my first noble hotel location. I too, may have felt a little sorry for the culprit responsible, as I always travel with everything but the kitchen sink and this trip was no exception.
The last point to make on Oporto; if anyone is wondering how I could possibly visit the city without even sniffing on a glass of Port, well Mr. Vidal had far better ideas up his sleeve which we will hear about in Part Two.
Situated roughly an hour inland from the coast, east of Oporto and on the edge of the Vinho Verde Wine-growing Region lies the idyllic Monverde Wine Experience Hotel, my haven for the first two official nights of my SurfWineTours experience. On arrival I received a hearty welcome from the Manager himself and a mouthwatering glass of perfectly chilled Quinta da Lixa sparkling wine, which to be honest, didn't even touch the sides.
In stark comparison to my own ragged appearance following a long day in the heat and a tour of Oporto on foot, my first impression of Monverde was one of peaceful tranquillity, serene charm and stylish elegance. I was in fact so in awe of the place that for a second I was convinced I'd arrived in heaven. Reality then kicked in and I remembered Mum's words as a kid: "You'll never go to heaven young Lady", to which I almost always replied cantankerously; "I don't want to, I wouldn't know anyone there!". Well anyway, that's another story…
Quinta da Lixa and the main Monverde hotel building are situated on ca. 35 hectares of land planted with vines reaching as far as every horizon in sight; North, South, East and West. Dotted randomly around the Hotel's central premises and in the middle of this sea of healthy-looking vineyards are the exquisitely restored guest rooms, of which some were the estate's original buildings. Now reclaimed and renovated, the traditional stone and wood harmonise perfectly in combination with modern flair and Portuguese craftsmanship. I was captivated.
Directly next to the main building is the Hotels' Spa Area including both in- and outdoor swimming pools for the guests, also extensive Event-Facilities, but more on those later.
My accommodation was divine and the bed, having tested it for comfort, promised a sound night's sleep. However, my stomach was telling me my throat had been cut, so into the shower I sprang and on with the glad rags. Luckily, I'd packed a few "nice things" for dinner, although these were now looking like those sorts of "crashed curtains" you hang up in a window rarely opened. What I haven't yet admitted, is that I'd successfully smuggled a few bottles of my favourite German Wine into the country, thus reducing my suitcase capacity. Not saying I was pessimistic about the quality of Portuguese wine, but I do like to be prepared for emergencies…
The location that evening was in a pretty little town built on the banks of the Tâmega River. Amarante, perhaps a twenty-minute drive from Monverde and according to www I had successfully managed to miss the Festival of São Gonçalo which takes place in the first week of June. At this Pagan Fertility Festival young unmarried couples apparently exchange phallic-shaped cakes as a symbol of their passion and love. Not falling into any of these categories and having given up most sweet things years ago, I guessed I wouldn't have been on the receiving end anyway. However, as we arrived the town was still very much alive and kicking- I mean - celebrating. The streets were full of happy dancing people, stalls were set up with local goodies, live music filled the air, as did the smell of
freshly baking bread, hot charcoals and roasting meat. An air of contagious joviality. Going by the age range of the local partygoers, these were possibly the Fertility Festival's "ones that got away", so I thought it better to be on my guard.
The evening's choice of restaurant- Ze da Calcada proved to be a good one, with an extensive Menu and even longer Wine List, neither of which I understood, hence willingly handed over full responsibility to my guide for the order. One thing which impressed me almost immediately and even before the food and wine had arrived, was the staff and their humble friendly manner. You notice these things, coming from a gastronomic background. I was grateful too, for the scenic river view, the sinking sun dancing like glitter on the water, the town's impressive medieval architecture and the interesting conversation. I did have a dessert although to my relief, it neither looked nor tasted like one of the above-mentioned cakes.
My introduction to Portugal was inspiring and I looked forward to much more.
Saudade,
Gail
Fotocredits: © GailTreuer
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