VAGABOND VINES & VIRTUE
- 23 hours ago
- 10 min read
Updated: 9 hours ago
DOUGOS WINERY
PDO RAPSANI, Greece
As an inquisitive man of expertise and blessed with a visionary mindset, Dimitros Dougos' work has left its' footprint on the vineyard map of Greece to this present day.
In the 1950s, Dimitros' wife Katerina's family founded one of Greece's oldest vine nurseries near Rahoula, Larissa, where her father, Konstantinos, worked with foresight and respect. Dimitros embraced the same values, developing a strong regard for the vines, the mountains on which they grew and soon earned high recognition and a name associated with the propagation of high-quality vines.
THROUGH THE BACK DOOR
Dimitros' commitment to the preservation and cultivation of indigenous Greek vine stock laid the foundation stone for the Dougos Winery as seen today but he also possessed an eye for lesser-known international varieties. Despite rigid quarantine import restrictions at that time (Phylloxera), he acquired and propagated healthy cuttings - including Cabernet Sauvignon from the renowned Margaux Estate in France – which had apparently been smuggled over the border to Greece.
By the early 1980s, his nursery held an extraordinary collection of both Greek and international vines. In 1983, Dimitros began making wine as a passionate amateur. Then, in 1991, having acquired old vineyards on the slopes of Mount Olympus, he founded the Dougos Winery. Rather than starting from scratch, he was able to draw on decades of viticultural knowledge and exceptional planting material - including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc - to create a winery firmly rooted in both tradition and innovation.
TAMING THE MOUNTAIN
1994 marked two milestones: the release of the first official vintage and the opening of the new winery. Two years later, Dimitros joined forces with son Thanos who together with sister Louiza, have dedicated their work to upholding the family legacy. Today, Thanos and Louiza pursue the conversation originally opened by their grandfather. A narrative between tradition and vine, innovation and the mountain. Thanos - the agronomist - is responsible for their vineyards, Louiza with her background in chemistry - the oenologist.
Now an internationally recognised estate on the north-eastern slopes of Mount Olympus and in the Tempi Valley, the siblings work 7,3 hectares of iron-rich, grey schist soils at an altitude of between 450 and 700 meters. Having served for six years as the President of the Association of Artisanal Winemakers of Greece (SMOE), Thanos is a true ambassador of low-intervention, boutique Greek wines. It hence comes as no surprise, that back in 1997 the Dougos Winery was the second producer in Greece to secure official organic certification.
The mountainous terrain maybe a challenge but in June and July, the melting snow-topped mountain landscape develops a unique micro-climate and one in which the vines thrive well. Now deep-rooted, they profit from the cool atmospheric blanket which envelops the valley - the fresh ocean breeze rolling in from the Aegean Coast just 5 kilometres away, does the rest.
Cool-climate wines with low PH levels are the result. Balanced and fresh, concentrated flavours and aromatic complexity.
The altitude of the vineyards near Rapsani lies at around 450 to 500 metres. With zero irrigation, the iron-rich slate is vital - acting as a natural water regulator and thanks to persistent mountain winds, fungal diseases such as downy- and powdery mildew don`t stand a chance. Natural plant tonics help to keep stocks healthy but vines - particularly Greek varieties such as Assyrtiko - are generally resilient, adaptable and often highly sought after by nursery clients as far afield as Spain and France.
RAPSANI RULES
The Dougos` wine-range is a defined portfolio and limited to just seven wines - in exceptional years, maybe ten. Now in the second generation (the nursery in its third), Thanos and Louiza produce around 80.000 bottles annually, 50% of which is exported to countries including the United Kingdom and the States.
The PDO Rapsani (Protected Designation of Origin) was established in 1971 where three indigenous varieties rule the roost. It' s one of the smallest PDO's in Greece with approximately 100 hectares, yet a region deserved of your attention.
Rapsani wines must be a co-fermentation of the following grape varieties:
1. Xinomavro - which delivers tannin structure and the potential to age.
2. Krassato - lending softness of body and alcohol.
3. Stavroto - as balance and colour-coordinator.
Often compared to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro is powerful by nature and high in acidity. When creating Rapsani, Louiza tames Xinomavros' strong character in the same way Thanos works the mountain.
The reward: a sophisticated style of wine enjoyed just as much young as when patiently aged. Also equipped with international varieties, the spectrum obviously doesn’t' t end there.
METH ' IMON wines are more of an alliance between Greek viticultural heritage and the international stage than fashion chasers, choosing to embrace rather than dominate - with respect for their origin and Dougos pioneering innovation.
VINIFICATION
Louiza, who I had the pleasure of meeting briefly at the Wines of Greece THAT'S WINE, THAT'S WHY event in Larissa, shares Thanos' minimalistic approach.
Her winemaking methods:
whole-bunch fermentation, contact to the lees, maturation in oak/acacia and bottle-aging - lend complexity to her wines without smothering them. They aren' t loud game-changers - but graceful, balanced and authentic.
Whole-bunch fermentation enhance a grapes' natural flavours and aroma, otherwise lost if directly pressed and fermented. A period on the lees lends texture to a wine, a creamier finish and increases complexity.
The wooden cask-lined cellar also houses a collection of bottle-aging wines which are particularly popular with fine-dining restaurants up and down the country. With the exception of Limniona, all wines are matured for five, six or seven months in (mainly) used French or American oak although in 2005, they were the first producers to release a white Assyrtiko (99% Assyrtiko, 1 % Sauvignon Blanc) fermented to 50% in Acacia.
A SYMPHONY OF WINES
Reminiscent of an orchestral symphony rather than your run-of-the-mill wine-tasting, Thanos discerningly presented the estate's portfolio.
A gently restrained opening of whites soon gathered in momentum to end in a lively and exhilarating red crescendo. The highly informative and entertaining tasting – with the latter attributed mainly to Thanos sympathetic manner and boyish charm - led to the discovery of my perfect summer red.
If you`ve had the stamina to make it this far, congratulations!
Of the nine-strong flight as seen above, you`ll find my tasting notes below.
My personal favourites in order of preference were as follows: 7, 5, 3 & 2.
But before I rant on about the wine, I would like to take this opportunity of saying thank you.
To Thanos Dougos for his genuinely warm hospitality, and to Maria Triantafyllou and Eleni Blouchou of Wines of Greece for the kind invitation and the excellent organisation.
I sincerely hope to return!
Should you ever be in the Rapsani region or visiting the city of Larissa - which is just a 30-minute drive from the Dougos Estate - then please note my recommendations for both hotel and a great spot to eat.
Divani Palace Larissa – where I spent two very comfortable nights
Taverna O Platanas in Ampelakia – an extremely welcoming, family run and traditional taverna in a beautiful historic mountain village nearby.
HAVE FUN!
TASTING NOTES ♫ ♫ ♫
1. SR 2025 Sauvignon Blanc - Roditis Fox -
At around €12,00 a bottle, SR is a bargain for lovers of cool-climate, crisp, medium-bodied white wine and a good start to Thanos' performance.
Pale yellow with greenish hues in the glass, citrus and gooseberry - characteristic of a Sauvignon Blanc – on the nose paired with the aromatic stone fruits of Roditis Fox. The latter is mellowing to the palate and accompanied by hints of exotic mango.
Fermented in stainless steel with just 4 months on the lees, this is a fresh and elegant white ready to drink but one which will also age well.
Superb for food-pairing – meat dishes, including lamb.
2. METH ' IMON A 2025 Acacia
Not yet released – the METH ' IMON A Acacia 2025 vintage is a blend of 99% Assyrtiko and 1 % Sauvignon Blanc with 50% having been fermented in large acacia barrels.
Nine months on the lees (sur lie) - again in lightly toasted acacia - lend texture and a creamy mouthfeel.
A dry, medium-bodied white with good acidic structure, floral acacia blossom and wild herbs on the nose, zesty lemon, white peach and a hint of honey on the palate.
With a long mineral finish, this is a versatile wine with high aging potential.
My favourite of the two whites and at around €14,00 a bottle, an excellent deal.
3. METH ' IMON L Limniona 2025
A 101% single varietal harvested by hand and grown on steep mountainous slopes. 30% whole-bunch fermentation in stainless steel and bottled after six to seven months on the lees.
Limniona is one of Greece's most exciting fine-wine grape varieties and the Dougos Winery is one of two wineries who are particularly good at it. The 2023 vintage received a deserved mention in Julia Harding's (of Jancis Robinson.com) Greek Wine Report 2025.
This is Thanos' “Summer Variety”; it's easy drinking, light and refreshing, particularly when young and slightly chilled. The tannins are smooth, the fruit red and wild – with notes of cherry, strawberry, raspberry and floral blossom.
Pale ruby red with a clear bright rim in the glass, the palate is silky and well balanced.
Overall, an animating fresh wine with character, subtle floral notes and layers of herb and spice - often found on fine-dining wine lists as a good “summer red” alternative. It' s great value for money at around €19,00.
You'll taste neither alcohol (13% ABV) nor label design in your glass but if addressed, both topics will set off a lively discussion – albeit in Greek…😉
4. Rapsani RED DRY WINE 2024
As mentioned above, the Rapsani PDO is a blend of three native varieties: Xinomavro, Krasato, and Stavroto.
Co-fermentation with indigenous yeast in stainless steel of 40% Xinomavro, 40% Krasato and 20% Stavroto.
Maturation of up to seven months on the lees produce a classic but savoury Greek red. Aged for 12 months in French and American oak then bottled for another year prior to release.
Rapsani 2024 boasts vibrant fresh red fruit, cedar wood notes, is a little smoky with firm tannins which don`t rip your tongue off.
This was my first Greek surprise and a wine ready to drink.
5. Rapsani OLD VINES RED DRY WINE 2023
We now set sail with the Flagship wines and Rapsani OLD VINES certainly boosted us to the next level.
Sourced from over seventy-year-old bush vines grown on one of the highest and highest-rated vineyards in the region - planted in 1952 - the yield is low but concentrated.
The wines' core is herbal, almost medicinal accompanied by aromas of ripe red berries. A highly rewarding Connoisseur wine thanks to the combination of vine age, altitude, malolactic fermentation and 18 months in used and new (10%) 300 litre French oak.
A wine of remarkable finesse, structure and complexity - aged for a further 12 months in the bottle before going to market. Medium-bodied, well-structured and savoury with a mineral, black peppery finish.
If there's one wine with which to grasp the Dougos' philosophy, this is probably a good candidate. It doesn' t chase richness, nor heavy oak but is an expression of the historic blend, mountain freshness, origin and restrained vinification.
An age-worthy wine and Apologetically Greek at around €22,00 a bottle.
6. Rapsani TOURTOURA OLD VINES RED DRY WINE 2022
What stood out most during the tasting was the overall freshness - especially in the reds. They are palatable, suit a broader audience, are excellent partners for international cuisine and TOURTOURA was certainly one of the flight highlights.
Born of a single vineyard parcel planted in the 50' s – the cool micro-climate at high altitude and meticulous selection have brought forth a quite remarkable wine expressive of its' origin and the indigenous vines.
Vinified with precision under Louiza's watchful eye: the use of native yeast, timely skin contact, whole bunch fermentation and 18 months on the lees in small French oak casks.
Deep ruby red in the glass, concentrated black and red fruit on both nose and palate - wild strawberry, raspberry, sour- and black cherry together with spicy clove. A slightly astringent yet animating masterpiece with persistent tannins and fresh acidity.
At around €45,00-50,00 per bottle the price is justified and certainly one for your cellar.
7. MAVROTRAGANO 2022
According to the experts, Mavrotragano is one of Greece's rarest and most provocative red grape varieties originally associated with sweet wines from Santorini. It' s recent revival is a dryer variant and one which is being taken seriously.
Unlike Rapsani, MAVROTRAGANO is a single varietal and notably characteristic of its' origin. Of dark, rich and tannic character which in combination with the Dougos' family philosophy, embodied the Baritone of Thanos' concerto.
A powerful red with acidic structure and beautifully concentrated black fruit, biting black pepper and a hint of smooth dark chocolate. Full-bodied without being heavy, supported by polished tannins and a suggestion of residual sugar.
A poky red which I immediately fell in love with, although its full potential is predicted in years to come.
Currently available at around €30,00 – yes, you read that right 😉
8. METH `IMON 7 EPTA 2022
Who needs Châteauneuf-du-Pape when you can have a Greek Chateaux-Sept-du-Tempi?
The background: historically, this was a field-blend of seven varieties created to showcase the diversity of Greek viticultural heritage, rather than that of a single appellation or variety.
With EPTA, Dougos take a more international approach blending 40% Limniona, 30% Grenache Rouge and 30% Syrah. Limniona delivers elegance & acidity, Syrah - dark fruit, depth and spice and Grenache Rouge - fruity red berries and softness.
A classic floral red enhanced with pepper, spice and 18 months in French and American oak casks - 40% of which were brand new. An exceptional wine in which oak no longer takes a second seat.
Bottle aged for a further two years, this is a one-of-a-kind creation at €23,00.
9. METH `IMON Opsimo 2022
METH `IMON Opsimo is made only in outstanding vintages when the elegance of Limniona closes ranks with the Mediterranean richness of Grenache Rouge and Syrah.
The late harvest and minimum yields bring forth concentrated fruit which together with relentless patience, reward the winery with at best - 2000 bottles of magnificent wine.
Deep ruby red with purple hues in the glass, the nose is intense and layered - blueberry, blackberry and black cherry opening to subtle earthy tones and tobacco.
On the palate - cedar wood, dark chocolate, spice and violets mingle with ripe dark fruit and fresh acidity.
A complex Altitude Ace and a top wine for your cellar.
FOR MORE INFORMATION about the Dougos Winery, please visit their homepage or contact Thanos directly under: info@dougos.gr
And by the way, Dougos Wine Distributors are everywhere! ;-)
If visiting Greece yourself and excited to learn more about the wines, please check out the Wine Routes of Northern Greece here or contact Wines of Greece, who I am sure will be happy to assist.
Following a visit to Greece in July 2026, kindly sponsored and organised by Wines of Greece.
A pleasure and an honour to have been invited.
Fotocredits unless otherwise stated: Gail Treuer
