O∙PORT∙UNIDADE

VINTAGE PORT MMXXIII

THE PORT PROJECT

The World of Port Wine, often associated with snobbish, cigar-smoking members of the High Society - wearing just as ancient attire and slouched in worn leather Chesterfield armchairs, is a transforming one. Certain Port Wine Specialists, not to mention the Producers themselves, are successfully banging their drums on the subject, many of whom were not even born in Portugal.

Axel Probst is one of them, despite having no similarity with Churchill whatsoever. What he does have though, is immense knowledge of the subject and one accumulated over the past two decades. But his contribution towards improving the modern-day image of Port Wine goes far and beyond the role of a simple ambassador. For Axel, Port Wine is not just an after-dinner drink - a second thought. At Trade-Fairs in particular “it (Port Wine) is often served when everything else has been tasted.” For this very reason, Axel has successfully established a community of Port Wine enthusiasts who may otherwise not exist. The masses though, still grope largely in the dark.

THE BOOK

It appears that Axel has tasted his way through a fair share of Ruby, Tawny, and Vintage Ports - from Alves de Sousa through to van Zeller and from western Baixo Corgo, to the depths of Douro Superior. In 2017 he published his first book on Port Wine, a project of passion on which he began working back in 2010. The second and updated edition (2022) is too, a masterpiece of research and includes an extensive list of producers and an even longer collection of (over 1500) tasting notes. In what may be described as Germany`s first Port-Wine-Bible, Axels` PORTWEIN is both factual and accessible thanks to his relaxed, sometimes humorous style of writing - quite uncommon for a German in fact.

The only thing the book fails to achieve, is replace personal experience - be it in Portugal, or by the glass. A Port Wines` full complexity will be appreciated having visited its`origin: The Douro Valley - a true monument of natural beauty in itself. Better still, pick the producers brains on a visit to the cellars - only complete of course, with the appropriate tasting. Preferably though, you`ll do all three.

THE PORTWEINMESSE

In 2011, the Confraria do Vinho do Porto (Port Wine Brotherhood) awarded Axel the title of Cavaleiro (Knight) – this itself, recognition for his dedication to the trade. In 2022 he then earnt the newly created rank of Fidalgo Cavaleiro (Noble Knight) and to date, Axel has been voted “Best Port Wine Critic of the World “ for three consecutive years in a row. It should go as no surprise, that when Axel and Christoff Pfaff – himself Cavaleiro and Travel-Guide-Writer – decided to establish the first and very only Germany based Port Wine Trade Fair in Leverkusen, pretty much all leading Port Wine Producers jumped willingly on board.

Since 2014, the PORTWEINMESSE in Leverkusen has become an annual event attracting professionals and amateurs alike. The Programme includes both a Basic Port Wine Seminar and a Masterclass – not seldom presented by one of Portugal`s most iconic Producers such as Symington, Niepoort and Sandemann. This years` Masterclass covers 4 Decades of Winemaking in the Douro valley and will be introduced by no other than Taylor, Fonseca, and Croft`s head oenologist; David Guimaraens. With the opportunity of exploring over one hundred Category Port Wines including the pinnacle of Tawny and Vintage Ports, I see no valid excuse NOT to be there.

TIME CAPSULE

One regular visitor to Leverkusen is Ruud Scholten - a Dutch Port Wine Fan and Entrepreneur who claims: “Vintage Port is more than a wine — it’s a time capsule” and I agree. Ruud, The Portologist offers an extremely informative Homepage himself and has recently released his own book covering Port Wine Cocktails. Port Wine from a quite unfamiliar perspective - full of expertly crafted Cocktail Creations targeting a younger audience than has since been the case.

THE PORT PROJECT

This year sees the launch of the 2^nd Edition of O-PORT-UNIDADE, a 2023 Vintage Port to which no less than 32 prominent Port Wine Houses generously contributed. This follows the success of the 2013 Vintage when 25 producers rallied round and €100.000,00 was raised for Bagos D` Ouro. The charity is a private initiative, committed to the long-term support of the regions` youth and their families and in round two, Axels’ donation target has doubled.

A true Tour de Force and one born of perseverance, passion, and precision-planning. Alone the coordination of timely grape delivery a challenge but paired with hooking up the group of VIP producers on a single day, a daunting task. Despite the rain, the 2023 harvest kicked off in September, as did the participants – both male and female - their trousers.

The location: a granite round-lagar, kindly provided by Niepoort at Vale de Mendiz in the heart of the Douro Valley. Grape treading, or stomping as they say in Portugal, may look therapeutic but it`s arduous work and by the end of the day, the project by no means complete. An elite team of eleven Oenologists discussed and decided on the final blend in January 2025, having already joined ranks the previous March. IDVP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto) Registration followed and just three weeks later, O-PORT-UNIDADE Vintage Port MMXXIII was official!

The 20+ indigenous grape varieties - harvested from the most westerly point of Baixo Corgo through to the blistering heat of the Douro Superior, have produced a fine Vintage Port of expression, although experts may say – the best is yet to come.

The very moving "making of" video you`ll find here: the immense feeling of unity of those involved gave me goosebumps.

Bottled in July 2025, O-PORT-UNIDADE 2023 boasts a deep ruby-red in the glass and a nose full of ripened red- and black fruit. Cherry, Red- and Blackcurrant, Plum, Blackberry and Elderberry to name but a few. On the palate a corner of dark chocolate, raisins, eucalyptus, liquorice, and spice balance well with fine tannins and hesitant acidity. The moreish, smooth, slightly smoky, and long persistent finish will have you wanting for more.

With just 5.000 bottles available, your sprint for the finishing line is on.

Axel: "Acidity is currently in lane 1, the tannins in lane 2 and the fruit - in lane 3 ". Should you stand the proposed endurance test - "following fifteen long years of puberty, all three lanes will meet head-on". Admittedly, once I have something new in my cellar, I want to taste it. So my personal recommendation and in consideration of the good cause:

Order one for now and one for the Photo-Finish!

" With these thirty+ Top Houses contribution - representative of the whole of the Douro Valley in all its might and quality - what can possibly go wrong? ”

I`ll toast to that and long, may the Legacy last.

For more information about Axel Probst and Port Wine in general, please visit his Homepage under: World of Port

The Port Project O-PORT-UNIDADE Vintage 2013 & 2023 you may find here:

The Port Wine Project

For purchase requests, please contact Axel Probst under: info@o-port-unidade.com

For information concerning the Port Wine Trade Fair in Leverkusen on 28.11.2025, the Programme & Ticket orders here: PORTWEINMESSE

Fotocredits:

Gail Treuer, Axel Probst, Ruud Scholten

O-PORT-UNIDADE 2023

The 32 Lagar Stompers

Tiago Alves de Sousa - Alves de Sousa, Carlos Flores dos Santos - Andresen, Isabel Vieira Bulas, Ricardo Nunes - Churchill, Duarte Calem - Combro, Marta Casanova - Quinta da Côrte, Miguel Roquette - Quinta do Crasto, Elsa Couta - Quinta de Ventozelo, Ana Ribeiro - DR Port, Alvaro van Zeller - Barao de Vilar, Joao Roseira - Quinta do Infantado, Susete Melo - Kranemann Wine Estates, Sophia Bergqvist - Quinta de la Rosa, Ana Urbano - Messias, Joao Rosa Alves - Menin Wine Company, Rita Braga - S. Leonardo, Daniel Niepoort - Niepoort, Luisa Amorim - Quinta Nova, Carlos Agrellos - Quinta do Noval, Jorge Pintao - Pocas, Paulo Coutinho - Quinta do Portal, Oscar Quevedo - Quevedo, Jorge Rosas - Ramos Pinto, Luis Sottomayor - Sogrape, Carla Tiago - Sogevinus, Charles Symington - Symington Family Estates, Odile Bouchard - Quinta do Tedo, Isabel Abreu - Quinta Vale D Maria, Luisa Ozalabal - Quinta do Vale Meao, Francisco Ferreira - Quinta do Vallado, Fatima Lopez - Vallegre, Francisca van Zeller - van Zellers, Axel Probst.

The 11 expert Oenologists

Nick Delaforce - Niepoort, Ana Rosas - Ramos Pinto, Carlos Agrellos - Noval, Carlos Alves - Sogevinus, Jorge Alves - Tedo, Nova, Tiago Alves de Sousa - Alves de Sousa, Charles Symington - Symington Family Estates, Ricardo Nunes - Churchill, Claudia Quevedo - Quevedo, Luis Sottomayor - Sogrape Vinhos, Álvaro van Zeller - Feuerheerd.