WHERE THE NORTH WIND BLOWS
- vor 16 Stunden
- 5 Min. Lesezeit
Tyrnavos, Thessaly
BACKGROUND
Born into a family who have been making wine in Tyrnavos for more than a century, Christos Zafeirakis returned home in 2005 with Oenology studies complete and harvest experience in Italy under his belt. Despite not starting from scratch, back home he was determined to charter a new course. New vineyards were planted, farmed organically and since 2019, biodynamic practices have been adopted across the estate.
Greece boasts over three hundred indigenous grape varieties, many of which remain extremely rare. One of the enormous success stories is Limniona, which until the early 2000s only existed in just a handful of vineyards around Tyrnavos. Today, Limniona has become one of Greece's most celebrated red grape varieties and expressive of both region and terroir.
PGI TYRNAVOS, THESSALY
Tyrnavos, a landscape of gently undulating plains and low hills in the northern part of Thessaly, lies just twenty kilometres northwest of Larissa. A broad basin framed by some of Greece's most dramatic mountain landscapes - Mount Olympus to the north, the Kamvounia range to the west, and Mount Ossa (Kissavos) to the east. These surrounding mountains create a distinctive eco-climate, sheltering the vineyards while allowing cool air to descend onto the plain. Vines here grow at an altitude of between seventy and two hundred and fifty metres on alluvial river-bed deposits, clay-limestone with, in part, a high concentration of flint.
Limniona flourishes here. The grapes retain remarkable freshness, are bright red with aromatic complexity, vibrant acidity and silky tannins.
YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT
Just as human health depends largely on what we consume, a plant's vitality reflects the environment in which it grows. The quality of its natural habitat, together with the availability of essential nutrients and trace elements. All play a significant role in a vines` vigour and resilience.
Christos` philosophy embraces a holistic, low-intervention approach. The estate is organically certified and follows biodynamic principles.
Natural composts, animal manure and horn preparations form the basis of vineyard management, while many tasks in the vineyard including tilling, are conducted in accordance with the rhythms of the lunar cycle.
The windmill on the wine labels mirrors this philosophy: a symbol of Mans’ relationship to the elements – to air, water, and the earth - creating a visual bridge between past and present.
While Limniona remains the estate's defining variety accounting for around forty percent of the ca. twenty-two hectare vineyard, equal attention is given to Malagousiá, Assyrtiko, Chardonnay and Syrah. Each varietal expressive of a different facet of Tyrnavos and the estate's thoughtful, site-driven values.
VINIFICATION
Harvest at Ktima Zafeirakis kicks off in August with Malagousiá and Chardonnay. Limniona – the estate`s later-ripening flagship variety - towards the end of September. The vineyards range in age from around ten to fifteen years, to mature parcels of thirty to thirty-eight years, with the oldest vines producing wines of greater concentration and complexity.
After harvest, the white grapes are chilled for twenty-four hours before undergoing spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Fermentation takes place either in stainless steel tanks or in large oak casks ranging from twelve hundred to two thousand four hundred litres. Wines from the oldest vineyards also undergo malolactic fermentation, adding texture and depth while preserving freshness. Depending on the style, extended skin contact and maturation in both new and seasoned oak lend additional layers of structure and depth.
The red Limniona grapes are spontaneously fermented in large Austrian oak barrels with a capacity of between three thousand to five thousand litres. This may take up to twenty-five days. The wine is then matured for as long as eighteen months, either in large wooden casks or in exceptional vintages, in clay amphorae.
PRESENTATION
The portfolio presents two distinct styles. Wines such as Logos, Assyrtiko and Malagousiá are defined by their freshness, purity of fruit and a clean, expressive profile. Alongside these are the more concentrated, age-worthy wines of greater character, texture and breadth, their individuality shaped by vineyard origin and age.
FOUR FOR THE CELLAR
Of the three flights presented, I have selected four wines which I highly recommend you check out. This doesn`t mean however, that you shouldn`t try the whole portfolio for yourselves.
To begin, a Zafeirakis’ extra brut sparkling Rosé.
PROLOGUE
PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) Tyrnavos.
A blend of fifty/fifty Limniona and Assyrtiko. Méthode Champenoise – bottle fermentation and eighteen months on the lees. Persistent bubbles highlight the delicate salmon pink in the glass. Fruity on the nose with a fresh crisp mouthfeel.
The medium acidity and body balance beautifully with notes of white blossom, citrus fruit, pink grapefruit and raspberry - subtle brioche notes from the period on the lees.
A long, pleasant finish and according to host Christina, an excellent choice for watermelon and summer fruits, which I`ll happily go along with.
FLIGHT ONE
LOGOS 2025, ASSYRTIKO 2024, MALAGOUSIA 2025
LOGOS 2025 PGI Tyrnavos.
100% bio – Chardonnay. Ten to fifteen year old vines harvested in August. Fruit chilled prior to spontaneous fermentation with natural yeast in stainless steel tanks.
Pale straw yellow in the glass and a refined floral nose. A dry, but soft white boasting apricot, peach and pear on the palate. This is an elegant, easy drinking wine of medium length. In comparison - the FOOTHILLS 2023, produced from older more established vines - fermented and aged for twelve months in Austrian oak - presents itself with a much greater flavour complexity, body and length.
FLIGHT TWO
MICROCOSMOS 2025, NATURA 2022, FOOTHILLS 2023
NATURA 2022 PGI Tyrnavos.
100% twenty year old Malagousiá grown in the region of Paleomylos - or “Old Mill” and harvested in August.
Spontaneous natural yeast fermentation in two thousand four hundred litre Austrian Oak barrels then a further 6 months in the same wood. Unfiltered and naturally expressive.
Bright but pale yellow with a vibrant nose in the glass. Stone fruits – peach and pear, orange blossom and a hint of mediterranean herbs.
A textured yet precise palate with well-integrated acidity and saline minerality. A dry white produced only in particularly good years.
FLIGHT THREE
LIMNIONA ROSÉ 2025, LIMNIONA 2023 young vineyards, LIMNIONA 2023 old vines, TERRACOTTA 2023
The final tasting - Rosé and Reds - offered an excellent insight into the many facets this versatile, almost abandoned indigenous variety. From the Rosé`s vibrant freshness to the youth of young vineyards 2023. But the estate's most distinct interpretation of Limniona - their Terracotta 2023 - was my personal highlight. With extended maturation, the clay amphorae permit amicable conversation between both vineyard and variety. The result: exceptional clarity.
TERRACOTTA 2022 PGI Tyrnavos.
100% Limniona – harvested in September from thirty to thirty-eight year old vineyards. Spontaneous fermentation in three thousand & five thousand litre wooden barrels for around twenty to twenty-five days. Maturation follows but this time in three hundred and twenty, and four hundred and forty litre amphorae for a period of approximately twelve months.
Aging in clay lends remarkable purity and texture refinement, retaining at the same time, acidity and fruit.
Terracotta – a dry red only produced in exceptional years – boasts red sour cherry, wild strawberry and dried herbs on the palate followed by a slightly peppery, earthy finish. An invitingly bright ruby red with silky tannins and great length.
Unfiltered and my FLIGHT THREE favourite.
Many thanks to Christos Zafeirakis for enabling the visit and to Christina, for looking after us so well.
For more information about Ktima Zafeirakis and their wines, Christina is looking forward to hearing from you.
Domaine Zafeirakis
40100 Tirnavos, Greece
Tel.: +30-6972261962
Following a visit to Greece in July 2026, kindly sponsored and organised by Wines of Greece.
A pleasure and an honour to have been invited.
Fotocredits unless otherwise stated: Gail Treuer
