Herxheim, Pfalz, Germany
REWARD
There`s definitely something about the tranquillity of a vineyard (at least when the tractors aren`t about), particularly in one which has been tended with hours of loving care, and devotion. Whilst observing Alois Metz during one of his countless vineyard visits, this strong relationship between man and nature is evident.
IN HARMONY
In silent conversation he examines his vines, gently caressing the stems, pulling a leaf off here, a shoot there. To intrude would be nothing more than disrespectful.
Much water has passed under the bridge, both before and since Alois acquired the small plot of land (2,500 m2) in the Herxheimer Engelsberg single vineyard site. In 2012, Alois planted no less than 1,400 PIWI vines on a barren stretch of farmland, marking the beginning of a new life chapter.Â
"A MAN`S GOTTA DO, WHAT A MAN`S GOTTA DO."
I would never have associated Alois Metz with the Good, the Bad and the Ugly, nor with John Wayne. Not even on seeing the inscription on his tractor`s bonnet, yet approaching Herxheim for the very first time, I passed a sign reading "Pepper spray available here". Hells Bells, I thought: perhaps this is the Wild West - of the Pfalz.
Alois, raised in a close-knit farming family, one who kept livestock themselves and worked the land hard, learned at a very early age to appreciate and respect nature's resources. Initially though, his life was to follow a quite different path.
For 35 years Alois was to pursue a career in the world of Banking, his already existing drive led him to become a highly respected and successful businessman. That drive has not waned to this day.
Although PIWI (fungus-resistant) grape varieties are scorned by many members of the hard-core Wine Establishment, their trend is on an uphill curve. A conscious decision at the time, perhaps encouraged by that widespread opinion, he has proven once and for all, that great wines can indeed be produced with PIWI grape varieties.
He could be smug about this, but he isn`t. If anything it has made him more determined than ever, for Alois Metz` character is one not to be reckoned with. Once he has gotten his teeth into something, as could also be said for his two Jack Russell Terriers, he won`t let off lightly.
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
It is said that dogs often bear a resemblance to their masters. True in this case, as I was literally bowled over by the warm welcome I received from not just Theo and Anton, but also Marion and Alois Metz.
Alois has lived in his present home in Herxheim for 25 years. The small haven of unspoilt nature is where in 1990, he planted his first experiment: a small number of Solaris vines which produced the grapes for his first trials. Even the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry and although Alois studied many a book on Winemaking, he also paid the hard price for a serious number of blunders: well done son, his father would have said. ;-)
THE SADDLE OF SUCCESS
Well-known in the region as the Mounted Winemaker, often spotted on horseback in his vineyards, the saddle is not Alois only happy place. A close second, is a corner of his garage where, surrounded by the smells of fermenting wine, Alois enjoys his morning coffee.
This is a smell he grew up with and already loved as a child. The kitchen pewter was invariably filled with his father`s homebrew, from which Alois often nipped as a young lad when no one was looking, and as he comments with a grin, one which was less, rather than more palatable.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
The equipment in Alois` garage is minimalistic, most of which already belonged to his father. His greatest pride is the over 100-year-old wine press. This was the one his father used and which his father inherited from his grandfather. Another treasure, though not directly part of the garage inventory, is his extraordinary wife of 15 years, Marion.
Marion is the livelier of the pair. Her creative Social Media reels are entertaining, sometimes tongue in cheek, and a joy to watch in an otherwise saturated world of Wine-Marketing. And whether Alois likes it or not, her short films lend refreshing added value to their public profile.Â
On  Facebook and Instagram Alois is known as the PIWInzer, a term he came up with himself to draw attention to the new fungus-resistant grape varieties, but in a humorous not conceited fashion.
It was through Marion's cheeky marketing methods that I became aware of Garagiste Alois Metz in the first place. I assure you, it’s well worth dropping by and if you do, you might even find Germany`s answer to the Queen Mum.
But for Alois, advertising is definitely not a top priority. He doesn't produce his wines because he is desperate to sell them. His motivation is one of passion, also the burning ambition to prove those Wine Veterans wrong and as it seems: Mission accomplished.
The Weinmanufaktur Alois Metz in Herxheim is proving what PIWI varieties are capable of with practically zero intervention. A time saving and sustainable approach, unless of course, your name is Alois Metz, as he probably spends 3 times as much time in his vineyards as is necessary. Hence his vines (and his garage) are in pristine condition as you can see below.
Back in 2012 and following much hard preparation work, Alois went in search of the appropriate rootstock. Due to his own Mind-Set and morals he decided on PIWI Vines. What followed: the planting of two grape varieties: Solaris and Cabaret Noir. His supplier: Volker Freytag, owner of Rebschule Freytag in Neustadt an der Weinstraße.
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Rebschule Freytag and Volker Freytag have more than 25 years of experience under their belt and supply first-quality, also some rare vines to vintners worldwide. At the Slotovino Show in Kent, UK, in 2022, Rebschule Freytag won the award for Best Vine Nursery. On the same occasion Volker Freytag took a few of Alois` wines as convincing proof of the achievable PIWI quality for potential customers.
CABARET - TIME!
Alois Metz has even become Volker Freytag`s Cabaret Noir rootstock supplier. This means all Cabaret Noir cuttings originate from Alois` vines in the Herxheimer Engelsberg, recognition that a bird in the hand, is worth more than two in the bush.
Annually, Alois produces approximately 1000 bottles of each variety, also two fantastic Vermouths which were more of an accident, than a planned production. Alois admittingly missed the ideal vintage harvest point by a hair's breadth leading to very high fruit-sugar levels. The resulting wine was dry yet far too alcoholic for the normal market, at 16% by volume. This lead to Alois Metz` idea of producing his own Vermouth. Original Vermouth herbs were imported from France and with the addition of a few of his own, the Metz Artemesia Vinum was born. Problem solved. (Shop here)
Alois` wine is limited, numbered by hand, and more often than not, reserved in advance, so you need to get in there quick! His first vintage laid the cornerstone for what was to follow. An award in 2015 was soon followed by further prestigious accolades, and rightly so.Â
Alois` Cabaret Noir 2022 won first place with 92 points at Falstaff's Red Wine PIWI Trophy in 2023, and a Gold at the Rhineland-Palatinate State Award. Dedication and tenacity were paying off.
For both red and white wines, Alois applies the oldest method of fermentation. No added yeasts, no interference; nature takes care of the rest. Three different barrique casks are used for red wine maturation, each with a varying level of toasting and age. In this way Alois undermines, rather than "kills" the fruit flavours, softening tannins at the same time. Following 9 months of aging, the red base-wines are then re-united, producing delicate toasty and vanilla notes which embrace the ripe dark fruit.
RESILIENT
Cabaret Noir is a thick-skinned PIWI Variety. This not only contributes to its fungal resilience but also lends depth of colour, varying from ruby-red to deep purple depending on the vintage. Following the 9 months on the lees, the black cherry and blackberry notes, together with a hint of caramel and chocolate make this the ideal food companion, going particularly well with hearty game dishes.
Solaris is a Grape Variety I was already familiar with, but this one knocked me for six. A medium-dry pale straw-yellow 2022 vintage, subtle green reflexes depending on the light and loads of ripe fruit on the nose. An aromatic yet elegant White with quince, ripe melon, banana and a hint of spice. The stable acidity structure balances perfectly with residual sweetness, ensuring a persistent and very pleasant finish.
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TALKING OF PLEASANT
Each production stage and every step he takes is one in harmony with nature and the seasons.
Alois Metz maximizes complexity by volume reduction, harvesting far below the possible average at just 50 – 60 hectoliters per hectare. In doing so, he achieves rich, highly concentrated wines with magnificent aging potential.
An old medieval saying sprang to mind whilst I was there. To pour pure wine sometimes meant being told an unpleasant truth or getting watered down wine, quite common practice at the time. For me, it was more the honesty of the word "pure" which popped up in my thoughts. I got the real McCoy: maybe thick-skinned, but certainly genuine.
(Herxheimer Engelsberg- 13 rows of pristine vines in the middle)
My original article was in German and includes a fitting piece of Wine-Poetry from a gentleman named Roland Betsch. This I inserted as a little thankyou to Alois and Marion for having me.
THANKYOU!
PS. don`t forget your pre-order.
Stocks don`t last forever as I have already mentioned ;-)
 Gail
Fotocredit: TheRealMonti, Gail Treuer
WINE
In wine is toil, winemakers' sweat.
In wine is sun and nature’s debt.
In wine is Mother Earth reborn.
The ghost of some, whom we do mourn.
In wine, the roots of hope and fear.
In wine, the seasons — yesteryear.
In wine lies truth and life and death.
In wine is night and baby’s breath.
In wine is youth, mortality.
And sometimes — harsh reality.
The swinging pendulum of time.
Our lives` reflection seen in wine.
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