3RD Edition 2024
In the middle of my WSET 3 studies and finding it rather a challenge to get my head around international wines, I said to myself, practice makes perfect. But when you live in one of the finest wine regions Germany has to offer, there is no sane reason to investigate further than your own back doorstep. For the sake of experience and to broaden my horizon, I decided to make the effort of crossing at least one border, be it only a national one.
UNITED THEY STAND
Maxime Herkunft Rheinhessen e.V. (for ease, MH for short) was established in 2017 as the successor to Rheinhessen`s young winemakers' association "Message in a Bottle". Of the current 102 Estate Wineries, several are members of the prestige German VDP and some, young up-and-coming winemaking talents.
As a private initiative of leading producers in Rheinhessen, MH is independent from any other organisation or state institution. The members, admitted under strict evaluation, are committed to enhancing Rheinhessen's Wine-Profile and stand united in the production of dynamic, high-quality wines of character. Expression of Origin and Precision-Craftsmanship are tastable in each and every glass.
The MH OPEN Premiere took place in and around Ingelheim, Appenheim and Selztal in 2022, with a total of 14 Wine-Tasting locations. In 2023, it was held in the villages of Osthofen, Westhofen, Bechtheim und Mettenheim with 12 stops. This year, the focus was on Nierstein and the neighbouring villages of Schwabsburg, Dexheim and Weinolsheim.
AMBASSADORS ON A MISSION
A driving regional force, the MH Wine-Ambassadors are on a collective mission. For the Trade and wine-lovers alike, their strict and binding use of the Three-Tier Pyramid which categorises Estate, Village and Single-Vineyard wines, enables ease of quality perception and is transparent throughout. Together, the members work relentlessly and hand in hand to promote Rheinhessen`s reputation and its Terroir on a worldwide scale.
QUALITY PYRAMID
Originally established within the VDP, this model is now recognised nationwide as a sustainable and comprehensive classification system for high-quality German Wine. It clearly defines wine quality and individuality being recognised by consumers and experts alike.
Estate Wines form the base of the Pyramid and are the gateway to an origin-based hierarchy. The producers hallmark, so to speak.
The Village Wines (the Pyramid middle) derive from the best vineyard-sites within a given locality. They stand for the specific terroir. Typical regional grape varieties and low-yield harvests are a fundamental requirement for this type of wine. 75 hl/ha is the maximum yield permitted and marketing begins no earlier than the 1st of April.
Single-Site-vineyard wines are born from the region`s top parcels. Only the best vineyards within a specific district with historical, climatic and geological significance bear the vineyard denomination on the label. Single-vineyard wines are a winery`s highest quality, recognising just one designated site per grape variety and backed up by the corresponding characteristics. Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Frühburgunder, Silvaner and Chardonnay are the approved varieties. Significantly reduced yields and selective harvesting are essential requirements for these wines. The maximum Yield: 55 hl/ha, with vintage release on the 1st of September the following year.
HOP-ON, HOP-OFF
The vineyard geology in and around Nierstein is a special one. Famous worldwide: the „Roter Hang“ with its impressive reddish-brown iron-enriched soils.
Parcels of calcareous shelly limestone influence and enhance the many styles of the wine grown on the steep south, south-east facing sites.
Nature provides the character-lending framework, the MH Vintners deliver the necessary experience and expertise. This year’s MH-OPEN was not to disappoint.
Following Check-in to the recommended hotel: Jordan`s Untermühle in Köngernheim, I set off via Taxi to Nierstein for the start of my Hop-on-Hop-off Wine-Tour.
On arrival, Estate Winery Strub (Station 2) was a hive of activity, already boasting a large number of enthusiastic guests waiting to be scanned.
Glorious weather, sunshine and warm temperatures well over 24 °C heightened the jovial atmosphere and very soon, we were armed with a glass. With each of the nine Stops hosting no less than 5 Estate Wineries we had serious work on our hands.
A BUBBLY BEGINNING
My Rheinhessen-Experience kicked off with a mouthwatering Pinot Noir Rose Sekt Brut, closely followed by a 2023 Ingelheimer Gelber Muskateller, both wines from the Estate Winery Mett & Weidenbach (Ingelheim).
Mett & Weidenbach, as Jürgen Mett informed me, have been members of MH for three years now and are glad they made the move. For Jürgen, the Quality Pyramid and the clarity which goes with it mirrors their own conviction, pushing unmistakeable wine-personalities based on Origin and Terroir.
Jürgen sees himself as not just a winemaker, but more the Vine & Grape Communicator. His in-depth craftsmanship and understanding and respect for the terroir is exactly what the Three-Tier System supports. A sympathetic personality, great wines.
Germany`s first Organic Estate Winery Sander cultivates a diversity of grape varieties in the third generation, a range well reflected in their presentation that day. ZEITEN-SPRUNG Alte Sorte 2022 caught my eye, capturing my nose and palate with lush fruity aromas and a hint of spice.
Until a few years back, the historical variety Grünfränkisch, itself cultural heritage, was considered extinct. Since 2022, rules and regulations now forbid declaration of the ancient Grünfränkisch variety on the label. For Stefan Sander, an absurd decision and quite honestly, I agree.
WHEN TWO HEARTS UNITE
Stops number three and four, still in Nierstein, were within walking distance. The hosts: Estate Wineries Geschwister Schuch and Schätzel. There I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Jürgen Hofmann, joint-owner of Estate Winery Hofmann-Willems in Appenheim. Jürgen`s marriage to wife Carolin united both parental wineries, bridging the gap between Saar and Rheinhessen.
To say this has been a logistic challenge, would be an understatement. Together they pursue the same philosophy and are producing top wines and the diverse geological conditions extend both style and character of their Wine-Portfolio. Jürgen`s 2022 Hundertgulden Riesling trocken derives from soils thread with limestone, Carolin`s Saar Riesling Kabinett more a reflection of the Devonian slate, riverbed deposits and the warmer climate on the Saar. Two totally different styles of Riesling, a mirror of their origin and quite exquisite.
LABEL-TALK
An increasing number of new nonsensical EU Legislations are having a hard effect on every aspect of our daily lives and also impacting the Wine-Industry. As of December 8th, 2023, all wines produced thereafter must be labelled with additional consumer information in either physical or digital Form. Content ingredients, nutritional value, as well as further details must now be declared.
Mainz-based wine producer Eva Vollmer has creatively taken the red-tape one step further. A glance at her Eva Vollmer Weine Homepage unveils a burning passion for her trade, innovative and slightly extrovert individuality, traditional family values and Team-Spirit.
In addition to the mandatory QR-Code content, Eva`s customers will enjoy a wine description audio – „Weinsprache“ as Eva calls it. Recorded in a nearby studio, the flamenco background guitar recorded live, and a contribution from her cellarmaster. Check out her 2023er The Smoking Flamingo to get a listen in.
A quirky yet personal gesture in defiance of the authorities?
WINE BLISS WITH A VIEW
Further stops during the day included a bus-visit to the two Huff Estate Wineries in Schwabsburg: Georg Gustav and Fritz-Ekkehard who, together with further fellow vintners, boasted not only an extensive list of quality wine, but also beautiful gardens in which to enjoy them.
For all Foodies taking part there was more than enough on offer and despite the vast number of visitors, queues were short. Here I enjoyed a tasty Flammkuchen, washed down with „just“ one 2022 Flonheimer Riesling (Weingut Kampf), one 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (Weingut Alexander Flick) and one 2021 Pinot Blanc Reserve (Weingut Georg Gustav Huff).
Gails Gallivants came to an end at Estate Winery Raddeck, the perfect choice and a beautiful setting high up on the slopes above Nierstein (thank God for the bus..). An impressive sight when approaching, as were the views during my visit. Visionary, Wine-Companion and „Weinbegleiter“ Stefan Raddeck inherited his wine-making passion from previous family generations.
Stefans’s expertise profits from the diversity of stony soils in and around the „Paterberg“, also the rich nutritious limestone. Wines with zest, exotic ripe fruits and well-balanced acidity are the result, as was his 2023 Niersteiner Riesling Roter Hang.
The Estate Winery Thörle (Saulheim) 2023 Riesling Austernkalk and their 2022 PROBSTY Silvaner are two excellent examples of how versatile those little grapes can be. How varying soil conditions, and vinification methods have the ability of enhancing a wine`s character. Here, not your typical Riesling and a powerful Silvaner are the result.
Axel May and Estate Winery Steinmühle (Osthofen) has just got back from a flying visit to the States as one of only two visiting German Producers at the Vin Expo America in New York City. The Award-Winning young vintner has been with MH since the start and prefers to focus „on doing next to nothing“ in his wine-cellar. Controlled preservation of the vineyard’s quality and yield, his motto.
BOTTOM LINE
The 2024 Maxime Herkunft Rheinhessen OPEN proved a good excuse for discovering new lodgers for my wine-cellar (although they won`t be there long), and a convenient opportunity for catching up with the winemakers themselves. The undeniable quality-consistency and common denominator across the board:
They have nothing in common at all!
For more information about Maxime Herkunft e. V. and the members please take a look here:
https://www.maxime-herkunft.de/ and keep an eye out for their next events!
PS: a befriended Wine-Pro did warn me in advance, that too much Rheinhessen Wine puts your teeth on edge. I`ll let you know when I`ve brushed them tomorrow.
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