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PALACETE SEVERO

  • 1 day ago
  • 10 min read

Updated: 3 hours ago

The Essence of Hospitality

PORTO


Casa do Porto was planned and erected somewhere around 1900 - a declaration of love to both Francisca dos Santos Dumont and the Portuguese people and their architecture.


The house - designed by Ricardo Severo “in the manner of a collage” - boasts an abundant architectural mix of elements; from various regions of Portugal to decorative colonial details from Brasil. Unique stained-glass windows, baroque-inspired tiles and a sun-soaked conservatory. Upstairs, a living room with stove, lofty ceilings and arches - tall windows casting sunlight and shadows on decoratively hand-painted wall panels. A home which has stood the test of time and better known today, as Palacete Severo.



Abandoned for many decades, French owners Géraldine Banier and Stéphane Sarré have cleared Casa do Porto of ivy tentacles and intricately restored the property to its former glory. A unique boutique hotel with an intimate tale to tell.


Fotocredit: UMSEISUM
Fotocredit: UMSEISUM

Little is known about the life of Francisca dos Santos Dumont, yet her spirit tangible in every room of her once cherished home, alongside that of her beloved husband Ricardo Severo (1869-1940).


Fotocredit Dargent Antiques
Fotocredit Dargent Antiques

Born the son of José António da Fonseca e Costa and Mariana da Cruz da Fonseca e Costa in Lissabon in 1869, Ricardo graduated in Civil Engineering at the Academy of Porto in 1890.


During his life, Ricardo became a renowned engineer, archaeologist, architect and writer with strong political views. At the height of his political involvement he played an active role in the Republican Revolution of 1891. The movement failed and fearing persecution, Ricardo fled to São Paulo where he settled, if only temporarily.


Once in Brasil, Ricardo assumed work - quickly integrating into Brasilien High Society and soon betrothed.


With the unexpected death of his bride-to-be, Ricardo married her younger sister (20th September 1893) Francisca dos Santos Dumont (1877- 1930). Francisca, daughter of Henrique Dumont and one of Brasil`s wealthiest Coffee Kings, was just seventeen years of age at the time of their wedding, Ricardo twenty-four.


An imaginary letter from Francisca to Ricardo shortly after their wedding in 1893 (text here)


The couple on Honeymoon at the Alhambra, Granada. Fotocredit Dargent Antiques
The couple on Honeymoon at the Alhambra, Granada. Fotocredit Dargent Antiques

Altogether, Francisca gave birth to ten children. Their first child, a son born 1894 in Brasil, was named after his father yet sadly died. Having received an advance of one thousand contos de réis as an inheritance from his father-in-law, Ricardo returned with his young family to Porto where in 1896, Francisca gave birth to their second child – Maria. The infant survived just long enough to reach her fifth birthday.


Familia de Santos Dumont with Francisca third from right. Source
Familia de Santos Dumont with Francisca third from right. Source

At the age of twenty-one, Francisca gave birth to José (1898), then a third son (1903) Antônio five years later. Two of six future daughters - Franziska (1904) and Magdalena (1905 – who died) were also born in their home in Porto. The remaining four children in Brasil a few years later - Isabel 1908 -1997, Maria 1910 †, Laura 1917 † and Elisa 1921-2003.


 The Bistro, prior to restauration. Fotocredit: UMSEISUM
The Bistro, prior to restauration. Fotocredit: UMSEISUM

Understandably, Francisca would have had enough to do coping with three little ones - three tragic and premature infant deaths taken their toll - not to mention six pregnancies in eleven years. As a result, the family household could not have functioned on its’ own.


Back in Porto, Ricardo resumed activities as an archaeologist, also founded the magazine Portugália – which he produced up until 1908 when in financial difficulty, they returned to Brasil.



The Bistro today. Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
The Bistro today. Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography

Despite his professional and busy schedule – also the probable list of social commitments, records explicitly state that Ricardo never neglected his family. In custom with their wealthy childhood upbringing, also their social status, the young family relied on attendants in mastering everyday life. Support in the form of servants - now a growing necessity.


An imaginary letter from Ricardo to Francisca (pregnant with Franziska) regarding help in the household, written 1904 (text here)


The Portuguese word for family – familia - derives the word famuli, a term originally used for a group of servants and at the turn of the 20th century, the Portuguese Society consisted of two classes: the Elite and O Povo meaning "the People".

The servants would have been carefully chosen and with the same mindfulness, with which Ricardo and Francisco designed and furnished their home.


Almost 120 years on, Casa do Porto`s familia - not famuli -  has returned. Reminiscent of the heart- and soul-filled chambers of the past, today`s Team at Palacete Severo understands Hospitality far and beyond their daily routine. A line-up of carefully chosen individuals - selected for their character, integrity and attitude - over technical expertise.

 

Porcelain Vegetable Pot, a gift from Francisca`s brother Alberto Santos Dumont. Monograph RF (Ricardo Fonseca) in gold & silver, frequently found on residential furniture also with Francisca`s initial. Fotocredit Dargent Antiques
Porcelain Vegetable Pot, a gift from Francisca`s brother Alberto Santos Dumont. Monograph RF (Ricardo Fonseca) in gold & silver, frequently found on residential furniture also with Francisca`s initial. Fotocredit Dargent Antiques
The Library prior to renovation with Ricardo and Francisca`s initials over the stove. Fotocredit: UMSEISUM
The Library prior to renovation with Ricardo and Francisca`s initials over the stove. Fotocredit: UMSEISUM
The library today
The library today

My most recent visit to Palacete Severo was longer than previous stays and began with the warmest of welcomes - more enthusiastic in fact, than when I visit my own family. Here, Hospitality isn`t just a service, it`s something you feel. Palacete Severo is very unique but not only from an architectural perspective. With their consent, I would like to highlight the second, yet fundamental element nourishing the enchanting atmosphere: The carefully chosen Team (just a handful of examples but by no means everyone).



FAMILIA - A PERSONAL ACCOUNT


Your first encounter at Palacete Severo won`t necessarily be the Reception Team, but the Men in Black guarding the entrance – all day and all night. Miguel and Patricio, for example, whose task it is to cast a watchful eye on and secure the surrounding grounds 24/7. They`ll whisk your baggage to your room at the speed of light, relieve you of your coat or conjure up an umbrella in the blink of an eye.



Back in the 90`s, Cadbury`s Chocolate ran a James Bond inspired commercial (in UK) for their box of Milk Tray confectionary. Defying danger and death, the mysterious man in the advert risked life and limb just to deliver Milady her chocolates. I wouldn`t expect Miguel or Patricio to jump off a cliff for their guests, but I do think there`s a resemblance...


Left to right: Nuno, Josefina, Helder, Beatriz and Miguel
Left to right: Nuno, Josefina, Helder, Beatriz and Miguel

Should you arrive at Palacete Severo at nighttime, chances are Nuno will be the second person you meet. If you`re not hot on names – each team has a uniform with its’ own colour. Nuno belongs to Team Copper, is courteous and well wired up to his nightshift to - a position he has held for the past four years. Reserved on the outside - below the surface hovers a Jester just waiting to escape. In the unlikely event you catch Nuno off guard, be sure to experience humour worthy of a curtain call. Nuno is the hotel allrounder and when darkness falls, his colleagues gone home, he`ll deal with your out-of-hour requests - from late drinks to nibbles - probably more.


Francisco left, Ricardo right
Francisco left, Ricardo right

Although dressed in black, Ricardo leads Team Copper at Reception with a calm air of dignity. Beatriz, Josefina, Diana and Helder deal with enquiries, bookings - including your Uber reservation and tracking – should you, like me, be stupid enough to get into an anonymous car late at night. Team Copper also have an outstanding talent for recovering Lost Baggage.


On a previous visit my own Lost Baggage were two bottles of Vintage Port which for some reason, wouldn`t fit into my suitcase.


The girls came to the rescue and seven days later, I was reunited with my Port. They are also equipped with a direct wire to the men in black, hence know exactly who is arriving and when. Be sure to treat them in a friendly manner, as they will also finalise your bill 😉





Once in your room – on my last visit I was treated to one of the lovely rooms blessed with a balcony and view over the garden – you have ample cupboard space to unpack, also a coffee machine and Mini-Bar stocked on request with your own personal preferences.



All rooms are spacious, immaculately clean and the bedding simply heavenly – but mind you don`t mistake the toothpaste for face-cream (as I did). The underfloor heating in the bathroom is pure luxury once you`ve got used to it (crikey, the floor`s hot!), otherwise you`ll be balancing on the toilet with your feet in the air (did I?).


As to be expected, Room Service - Team Taupe - are fast and conscientious, yet easily startled. Although they endeavour to be invisible, I unintentionally frightened the life out of Mimi and Simone one morning on an unannounced visit to my room.


I considered giving them a medal - but one for bravery. Having spent six days living out of a suitcase, I`d spread out a little with my room now resembling a Clothes-Department-Store after the Winter Sale, rather than that of a five-star guest.


And having recovered (with a little persuasion) they perched on on my bed for a snapshot!



 Team Taupe: Simone left, Mimi right
Team Taupe: Simone left, Mimi right

Breakfast is served in the airy Bistro. This is an exquisite room with wall-to-floor tiling, high arched windows and a roof-light for early morning sunshine.



It`s also Andreia, Vasco and Davids` hunting ground – where in harmony with their surroundings - the uniform is Fern Green. Breakfast at Palacete Severo is not to be missed, equally celebrated as are lunch and dinner. Whether a fresh fruit and joghurt - or home-baked bread lover, everything is served with a beaming smile and at your table. No buffet queue, no search for butter, no coffee machine with unpronouncable products - basically - no stress (once you`ve conquered the cushions).


Francisco and David
Francisco and David

The Service Team (whatever their colour) have photographic memories. David, as an example, read my breakfast preference and without fail. Andreia – of sensitive almost humble disposition - radiates gratitude in all she does and a simple thankyou is all it takes, to light up her face with a gleaming elfish grin.


Coffee Queen Andreia
Coffee Queen Andreia

After a long day in the city - or even before you set off - there`s nothing nicer than refreshment and relaxation at home. Whether a Foodie or a Wellness freak, the Spa-, Wine- and Restaurant Menus lend inspiration.


The blossom-filled garden. Fotocredit Palacete Severo
The blossom-filled garden. Fotocredit Palacete Severo

Open to persuasion, also a bit of pampering (less so, getting undressed), I was treated to an hour-long GRAND FACIAL. The Spa - including Turkish bath, Himalayan salt room, a 24-hour gym and a heated outdoor saltwater pool, uses high quality Olivier Claire products - holistic skincare with remarkable results. How remarkable, no one said, but the plant-based active ingredients and (very) Essential Oils smell divine.


Oliver Claire - holistic skincare at Palacete Severo
Oliver Claire - holistic skincare at Palacete Severo

To my relief the massage device - an element of PERSPECTIVE GALERIE`s MYSTERIES BENEATH THE SURFACE exhibition - remained in the cabinet.


The soothing combination of cleansing, face mask and moisturising massage - The GRAND FACIAL - reduced at least some of my timelines (a posh term for wrinkles), in fact I almost nodded off.


Having enveloped me in enough layers of towel to make any Egyptian embalmer green with envy, Elisa bravely performed a tension-releasing hand and foot massage on top.



Lying there - gloved, face undercover and body a towel-shrouded cocoon - Verbena water vapour signalled the end of my metamorphosis and the hour glass - time for tea. Spa Manager Telma and Elisa – with her eleven years of experience - have been part of the family since day one. Perfectly positioned in their roles, both ladies notably contribute to the calm and serene atmosphere of the Spa - also to my appearance - with facial recognition now a thing of the past!


(Part of-)Team Spa - Elisa left, Telma right
(Part of-)Team Spa - Elisa left, Telma right

I seriously considered producing a before, during and after photograph but then thought better of it. Censorship is strict these days and The Online-Safety Bill might have put me in prison.


Lés a Lés Foto Credit Ronni Allen Photography
Lés a Lés Foto Credit Ronni Allen Photography

Palacete Severo is a paradise for connoisseurs. Tiago’s kitchen crew are as invisible as room-service, unless you can entice them out of their safety-zone. As much a defender of Traditional Cuisine as Ricardo was of Traditional Architecture, Tiago had just one ambition in life – to become a Chef.


Myself, pictured (from left to right) with Ronni Allen Photography Joana, Tiago and Pâtissier Pedro
Myself, pictured (from left to right) with Ronni Allen Photography Joana, Tiago and Pâtissier Pedro

Tiago - thanks for that delicious salad!
Tiago - thanks for that delicious salad!

Recently awarded their first Michelin Star, the kitchen team - dressed in black or in white - creates more than just regional specialities full of Portuguese flavour.


With Fine Art displayed throughout the house, it comes as no surprise to find even the dining table transformed into an edible masterpiece.


Set off on a voyage from the mountains to the sea, one brimming with memories of Portuguese history and culinary tradition in both Bistro and Restaurant.


LAST BUT NOT LEAST


The be-all and end-all of a good menu is the Wine List. Sommelier Victor - one of Palacete Severo`s newcomers - works hand in hand with Restaurant Manager Francisco and Bartender Pedro.


Whether a pre-meal Cocktail, Aperitif or Wine-Pairing advice, these three young gentlemen complement each other. Francisco knows the restaurant menu inside out, Victor the wines, and Pedro – is the master of mixology.


Sommelier Victor
Sommelier Victor

The Bar is more often than not your last Port-of-Call, where guests wind down and conversation kicks in. It`s the hotel Central Station but unlike Piccadilly Circus, the bar provides a realm in which to recline, either in advance of dinner or before retiring. The atmosphere here is calm, sometimes jovial and always welcoming.


Victor`s level of Wine Knowledge is as impressive as the Wine-List itself. His recommendations are reliable and fitting for the occasion. How about a Dão Revela by Mariana Salvador or Nossa Calcário - a Filipa Pato & William Wouters Bairrada project with old Bical vines? Above all, Victor has good taste and most definitely done his homework.


Restaurant Manager Francisco acts as interpreter between guest and galley possessing a sound knowledge of ingredients, preparation methods, also wine. His position is multifaceted, his character solid. One glance at the restaurant and having been a guest myself confirms: Francisco is doing a fine job.


Francisco at work. Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Francisco at work. Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography

Specialised in the Art of Mixing, Bartender Pedro`s wine and spirits know-how is more than competent. Producer of visually appealing and delicious cocktails, he`s a shaker, a stirrer and a decorator in one and when appropriate - also an entertainer.


Bloody Mary à la Pedro - Team Olive. Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography
Bloody Mary à la Pedro - Team Olive. Fotocredit: Ronni Allen Photography

Pedro`s experience benefits the ability to room-read. Recognising and adapting to both situation and guest is an Art, hence earns him the title: Chameleon. He also makes a damn good Hot Totty!



THE BOTTOM LINE


A hotel is more than five stars on a homepage, lavish fixtures and fittings or a comfortable bed: it`s the carefully chosen team polishing those stars, who make the real difference.

My compliments to you all.


February 2026, on invitation. Thankyou.


For more information, please contact Ricardo at:


R. de Ricardo Severo 21

4050-460 Porto

Portugal

Tel.: +351 22 9677000





 
 
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