Wine-Hopping in Portugal
Soalheiro is and always has been a family affair deriving not – as my title may imply, from the modern-day expression “Patchwork Family”.
In a small rural valley surrounded by mountains on the northernmost border of Portugal to Spain, agronomy is written with a capital A, communities are closely knit and traditions both significant and highly respected. Hidden amongst the undulating green hills surrounding Monção and Melgaço, a Patchwork of small and individual vineyards sites eagerly awaits you.
IN THE BEGINNING…
João António Cerdeira and his grape-growing neighbours never intended to become winemakers. Instead, they sold their grape harvest to a nearby cooperative in Monção. At that time it was quite common for a piece of land - like an allotment - to be used for the cultivation of vegetables as well as vines and for personal consumption. The grapevines marked the borders, running around the edge of a field, sometimes replacing stone walls and hedges and often trained "Pergola" or "Canopy" style (as seen below).
In 1974 João António decided to replant one of the family vineyards but as a continuous parcel, only vines and with one single grape variety - also not common practice. The Melgacenses (villagers of Melgaço) thought he had totally lost the plot. In hindsight, it was a brave decision and one which led to the very first brand of 100% Alvarinho in Melgaço. That pioneering spirit prevailed and in 1982 - 8 years later, SOALHEIRO - the business - was born.
Soalheiro is Portuguese for “a sunny spot” and also the name of João Antónios infamous vineyard of Alvarinho. Protected by the surrounding mountains dry, hot summer days warm up the basin of vineyards in and around Monção and Melgaço - a wine region where temperatures drop at night and winters can be wet and harsh. The unique combination of the regions geology – mainly granite - and the variable micro-climate can produce outstandingly fresh, crisp white wines - often high in acidity - given the essential expertise.
Although still a small family business at that time, João António was soon forced to remove his beloved red Ford Escort from the garage (also my first car and the same colour too!) to make room for essential wine-making machinery. In 1994 and only his second vintage as an Oenologist at Soalheiro, son António Luís produced the first-ever sparkling wine made solely from Alvarinho grapes.
A SENSATION!
It wasn`t long before the initial local scepticism took a positive turn, convincing several of the regions grape growers to follow suit. From the original handful of producers the Viticulturist Club - as they are known today, has grown to an impressive number of 180 members.
These producers inherited the conviction and sustainable philosophies so important to the Cerdeira family now providing the Soalheiro Estate with top-quality grapes from their carefully tended neighbouring vineyards. In 2023 an Homage to community consensus, unity and each respective vineyard personality was released. The book Patchwork or Manta de Retalhos – is a hardcover collection of expressive images photographed by João Bernardino and Kitato over a period of one year – one season.
50 years on, Soalheiro boast an annual production of one million bottles of wine and sparkling wine, 50% of which is exported to no less than 40 countries worldwide. Significant investment not only in Wine-Tourism has paid off including the beautiful Casa das Infusões accommodation. Necessary moves, as were personal growth and perseverance.
Daughter Maria João, having taken full charge of the viticulture side of things launched her Pur Terroir Herbal Tea range and played a decisive role in the Estates Organic Certification in 2006. Guarding the stability of the local economy is as important to the family ethics, as is sustainability.
Solheiros commitment and sense of responsibility for future generations have led to many interesting projects over the years including their Innovation Centre and the Project Germinar both benefiting the society and the ecosystem.
Unsurprisingly, Soalheiro became the first winery in Portugal to be awarded the Investigation, Development and Innovation Certification in 2019 but the list of awards is endless. Not only have Soalheiro received countless accolades for their wines at both a national and international level, but also for their contribution to the Portuguese Wine Tourism Sector. In 2024, Soalheiro quite rightly received the Great Wine Capitals Global Network People’s Choice Award in the category Regional Winner, for their contribution and yearlong efforts.
Well done!
João António Cerdeira was brave enough to break free from ancestral tradition and in doing so, laid the cornerstone for the Soalheiro we see today. Maria Palmira Cerdeira - Joãos wife, and offspring Maria João Cerdeira and António Luís Cerdeira, have inherited Joãos pioneering spirit, and their endurance is paying off.
On my recent visit to Portugal, having met Maria João at the Wine and Travel Week in Porto earlier this year, a visit to Soalheiro was simply a “Must-Do”. Indra Alves (above) gave us a hearty welcome, a thorough, professional and informative Tour of the Winery and during our grand tasting, I was delighted that Maria found the time to join us. Thank you - your personal insight and guidance were treasurable.
And thanks to my visit, I have a very special tip for all you wine connoisseurs and enthusiasts out there, but before I forget: our tasting was accompanied by a delicious selection of Fumeiro & Queijos (cheeses and smoked ham) so if - when you visit - you have the choice, be sure to choose both!
Now the serious stuff...
IG Minho
100 % Alvarinho
14,5 % vol.
€45,00
The Vinification method applied here is one better known in Italy and the last thing I expected to come across in the Vinho Verde. But the Cerdeiras are an experimental bunch as we have already heard. For Alvorone 2020, very ripe grapes high in natural sugar were harvested and then left for a period of 3-4 weeks to dry. Dehydration led to highly concentrated extracts, high sugar levels and acidity and once pressed - to an expressive, full-bodied also quite alcoholic wine. Maturation took place in new wooden casks for one year, followed by approximately six months in stainless steel tanks before finally bottling.
This unique wine was produced in partnership with a group of young winemakers, APRT3 Wines. A beautiful golden yellow in the glass, intense aromas – almost sweet on the nose with a pot-pourri of flavours on the palate. Exotic ripe fruits such as honeydew melon, honeycomb, plenty of zesty citrus - almost lemon marmalade in fact – and a hint of almondy marzipan and nuts. The oak notes are not persistent, the wine still wonderfully fresh and the finish long. This was perfect with the Portuguese cheese but can be enjoyed on its own as much as with a fatty meat dish like duck, also Asian cuisine.
And one for all “Bubbly Fans”:
IG Minho
100 % Alvarinho
12,5 % vol.
€15,50
Initially fermented and aged in used oak barrels, then the second fermentation in the bottle. 36 months on the lees before disgorging. Golden in the glass with a persistent but fine perlage. Secondary aromas of brioche and vanilla combined with a creamy mouthfeel and well-balanced acidity make this an enjoyable and elegant sparkling for many occasions and a broad range of dishes. Just experiment!
For further information or to book a visit please contact the winery under:
Indra Alves
Lugar da Charneca
4960-010 Alvaredo, Melgaço
Tel.: +351 251 416 769
E-Mail: enoturismo@soalheiro.com
Fotocredits: Gail Treuer, Soalheiro